Best Trees for Pots and Containers

A tree in a pot lets you grow species that shouldn’t survive in your climate, decorate a patio or balcony where there’s no soil, and move your plants around as the seasons change. I’ve kept a Japanese maple in a 24-inch glazed pot on my back patio for seven years. It looks better every season and has never been in the ground.

The secret to long-term container trees isn’t the species you pick. It’s the pot size, soil mix, and watering schedule. Get those three right and almost any dwarf tree will thrive in a container for a decade or more. Get them wrong and even a tough species will be dead within two years.

What makes a good container tree

Not every tree works in a pot. The best container trees share three traits: they stay small (under 15 feet), tolerate restricted root zones, and handle the temperature swings that come with above-ground roots.

Penn State Extension notes that container-grown plants need to be rated two USDA zones colder than your actual zone. Above-ground roots experience air temperature, not insulated soil temperature. A zone 6-hardy tree in a pot effectively lives in zone 4 conditions during winter. This is the number one reason container trees die: the roots freeze when the same species would survive perfectly in the ground.

Keep that two-zone buffer in mind for every tree on this list.

Japanese maple

Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) is the gold standard for container trees. Dwarf cultivars like ‘Crimson Queen’ (cascading, 8-10 feet), ‘Shaina’ (upright, 6-8 feet), and ‘Tamukeyama’ (weeping, 6-8 feet) stay compact naturally and produce spectacular fall color even in pots.

• Zones: 5-8 (zones 3-6 in containers with the two-zone rule)
• Container size: Minimum 18-inch diameter, 24-inch preferred
• Light: Morning sun, afternoon shade (full sun scorches leaves in hot climates)
• Water: Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged

Japanese maples are the tree I recommend first to anyone starting container gardening. They’re forgiving of occasional missed watering, they don’t outgrow their pot quickly, and the fall color stops people in their tracks. For more on varieties and care, our types of maple trees guide covers the full range from dwarf container specimens to 80-foot shade trees.

A 3-gallon Japanese maple runs $40-80 at nurseries. Larger specimens in 7-15 gallon pots cost $100-300 depending on the cultivar.

Dwarf citrus

Dwarf citrus trees are made for container growing. Meyer Lemon, Calamondin Orange, and Kumquat all stay under 8 feet in pots and produce real, edible fruit. Meyer Lemon on ‘Flying Dragon’ rootstock tops out at 4-6 feet and fruits year-round in warm climates.

• Zones: 9-11 outdoors, any zone indoors/with winter protection
• Container size: Minimum 15-inch diameter for young trees, 20-24 inch for mature
• Light: Full sun (6-8 hours minimum)
• Water: Water when top 2 inches of soil are dry

The key with container citrus is bringing them inside before the first frost if you’re outside zones 9-11. They don’t need warmth in winter, just temperatures above 32 degrees F. An unheated garage with a south-facing window works. Reduce watering in winter but don’t let the soil go completely dry.

Feed container citrus with a citrus-specific fertilizer every 6-8 weeks during the growing season. University of Minnesota Extension recommends starting regular fertilizer applications 2-6 weeks after planting, since watering leaches nutrients out of container soil quickly. Our fruit tree fertilizer guide covers the specific NPK ratios citrus needs.

Fig tree

Fig trees (Ficus carica) grow well in containers and fruit heavily even with restricted roots. Container stress actually helps with fig production because slightly root-bound figs put energy into fruit instead of vegetative growth.

• Zones: 7-11 outdoors (any zone with indoor overwintering)
• Container size: Minimum 15-gallon pot
• Light: Full sun
• Water: Figs are drought-tolerant but produce better with consistent moisture

NC State Extension confirms that ‘Brown Turkey’ grows well in containers but must be overwintered indoors in cold zones. ‘Celeste’ (7-10 feet) is another excellent container cultivar with smaller, sweeter fruit.

Figs in containers can produce fruit the first year after planting. In warm climates, you’ll get two crops: a smaller “breba” crop in June from last year’s wood, and the main crop in August through October. For specifics on feeding your fig, the fig tree fertilizer guide has the NPK breakdown. Figs are light feeders, so go easy on the nitrogen.

Dwarf Alberta spruce

Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca ‘Conica’) is a classic container evergreen. Its tight, conical shape looks formal without any pruning, and it grows so slowly (2-4 inches per year) that it stays proportional in a pot for 10-15 years.

• Zones: 2-6 (use the two-zone rule in containers)
• Container size: 16-20 inch diameter
• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Water: Keep soil evenly moist

NC State Extension notes this plant struggles in high heat and humidity. It’s not a good choice for zones 7-9 even in the ground, let alone in a container where temperatures run hotter. If you’re in a warm climate, skip this one and choose olive or crape myrtle instead.

Spider mites are the main pest issue. Mites love the dense foliage and hot, dry conditions near buildings. A hard blast of water from the hose every few weeks keeps mite populations in check. If needles start turning brown from the inside out, check for mites before assuming it’s a watering problem.

Cost: $25-50 for a 3-gallon. Larger topiaries run $60-120.

Olive tree

Olive trees (Olea europaea) are outstanding container trees for warm climates. They handle drought, heat, poor soil, and restricted root zones better than almost any other tree. A potted olive on a sunny patio adds a Mediterranean feel that’s hard to replicate.

• Zones: 8-11 (6-7 with winter protection)
• Container size: 20-24 inch diameter minimum
• Light: Full sun (the more the better)
• Water: Drought-tolerant but water when top 3 inches of soil are dry

‘Arbequina’ is the best container olive. It stays compact (8-12 feet), self-pollinates, and produces small, flavorful olives. ‘Little Ollie’ is a fruitless dwarf (4-6 feet) for people who want the look without the mess.

Olive trees tolerate cold down to about 15 degrees F for short periods, but the roots in a container are more vulnerable. In zones 7-8, move potted olives against a south-facing wall during cold snaps or wrap the pot with bubble insulation.

Cost: $40-80 for a 5-gallon. Mature specimens in large pots run $150-400.

Dwarf crape myrtle

Dwarf Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) cultivars bring summer flower color to container gardens. NC State Extension confirms dwarf varieties grow well in containers.

• Zones: 6-9 (zones 4-7 in containers with protection)
• Container size: 15-20 inch diameter
• Light: Full sun (minimum 6 hours)
• Water: Moderate, drought-tolerant once established

Cultivars like ‘Pocomoke’ (3-4 feet), ‘Chickasaw’ (20 inches), and the ‘Razzle Dazzle’ series (3-4 feet) bloom from June through September. Flower colors include red, pink, lavender, and white. Crape myrtles are deciduous, so they drop leaves in fall. This is normal.

The main maintenance is removing spent flower clusters (deadheading) to encourage reblooming, plus an annual pruning in late February. Our crape myrtle trimming guide covers exactly when and how to prune without committing “crape murder.”

Compact holly

Compact Holly varieties like ‘Nellie R. Stevens’ (Ilex x ‘Nellie R. Stevens’), Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria), and Dwarf Burford Holly (Ilex cornuta ‘Burfordii Nana’) all tolerate container life well.

• Zones: 6-9 (adjust for two-zone rule)
• Container size: 18-24 inch diameter
• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Water: Moderate, well-drained

Yaupon Holly is drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, and handles both sun and shade. The weeping form (‘Pendula’) grows 15-20 feet but can be kept smaller with annual pruning. Dwarf Burford stays 4-6 feet without pruning and produces red berries in fall.

Hollies prefer acidic soil (pH 5.0-6.5). In containers, use an ericaceous potting mix or add sulfur to standard potting soil. If leaves turn yellow between the veins, the soil pH is probably too high.

Choosing the right pot

Pot size determines how long a tree survives in a container. Too small and the roots circle, strangle themselves, and the tree slowly declines. Penn State Extension warns that circling roots from container growing can girdle the trunk and kill the tree years after planting.

Size guidelines:

• Start with a pot at least 4 inches wider than the nursery container
• Repot into the next size up every 3-5 years
• Maximum practical size for a movable pot: 24-30 inch diameter

Material matters:

• Terracotta/ceramic: Looks great, insulates roots well, but heavy and breakable
• Plastic/resin: Lightweight, cheap, retains moisture longer
• Wood (half-barrels): Good insulation, natural look, rots eventually (5-10 years)
• Fabric grow bags: Best drainage and air-pruning of roots, but ugly and dry out fast

Every pot must have drainage holes. No exceptions. A pot without drainage kills trees faster than drought. If your decorative pot has no holes, use it as a cachepot with a plastic grower pot inside.

For heavy pots (20+ inches), put them on a rolling plant dolly before filling with soil. A 24-inch pot with a tree and wet soil weighs 80-150 pounds.

The right soil mix for container trees

Never use garden soil in containers. It compacts, drains poorly, and may contain weed seeds, insects, and pathogens. University of Minnesota Extension emphasizes that container plants need a light, well-draining mix.

A good container tree mix:

• 4 parts pine bark fines (provides structure and drainage)
• 1 part peat moss or coconut coir (retains moisture)
• 1 part perlite (prevents compaction)

Pre-mixed potting soil from garden centers works fine for most trees. Avoid mixes labeled “moisture control” for drought-tolerant species like olive and citrus. Those mixes hold too much water and cause root rot.

Add a slow-release fertilizer at planting time, then supplement with liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks during the growing season. Container soil loses nutrients fast because every watering flushes some out the drainage holes.

Watering container trees

Container trees need more water than the same species in the ground. The soil volume is limited, roots can’t reach deeper moisture, and pots heat up in the sun, which accelerates evaporation.

General rules:

• Check soil moisture 4-6 inches deep before watering
• Water until it runs freely from the drainage holes
• In summer heat, large containers may need daily watering
• Reduce watering in winter for deciduous trees (no leaves means less water use)

Clemson HGIC recommends checking soil moisture rather than watering on a fixed schedule. A moisture meter ($10-15 from any garden center) takes the guesswork out. If the meter reads dry at 4 inches deep, water. If it reads moist, wait.

Overwatering kills more container trees than underwatering. The symptoms look similar (wilting, yellow leaves), but the treatment is opposite. Always check the soil before adding water.

Overwintering container trees

This is where most container trees die. The roots freeze, the tree never wakes up in spring, and the gardener assumes they did something wrong during the growing season.

Protection options (mildest to most protective):

• Move against a south-facing wall: Building mass radiates heat
• Wrap the pot with bubble insulation or burlap: Insulates roots from freezing
• Group pots together and mulch around them: Collective insulation
• Move to an unheated garage or shed: Stays above freezing without supplemental heat
• Sink the pot into the ground: Bury it up to the rim for the winter; soil insulates the roots

For evergreens like Dwarf Alberta Spruce that need light year-round, an unheated sunroom or enclosed porch works. Deciduous trees that drop their leaves (Japanese maple, crape myrtle, fig) can spend winter in complete darkness because they’re dormant.

Our frost protection guide covers additional strategies for getting tender plants through cold snaps. And for a broader look at patio and outdoor living upgrades, this outdoor project planning guide covers layout and design ideas that complement container plantings.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best tree to grow in a pot? Japanese Maple. It tolerates restricted roots, stays compact, provides four-season interest (spring color, summer shade, fall color, winter branch structure), and survives in containers for decades with basic care.

How long can a tree live in a container? With proper repotting every 3-5 years, many trees live 10-20+ years in containers. Japanese maples, olives, and figs are particularly long-lived in pots. The key is root management: when repotting, shave the outer inch of circling roots to prevent girdling.

What size pot do I need for a tree? Start with a pot at least 4 inches wider than the nursery container. For most dwarf trees, an 18-24 inch diameter pot is the eventual target. Avoid going too large too fast because excess soil stays wet and causes root rot.

Do container trees need fertilizer? Yes, and more often than in-ground trees. Container soil loses nutrients with every watering. Use a slow-release fertilizer at planting time plus liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks during the growing season. The tree fertilizer guide covers rates and timing.

Can I grow a fruit tree in a container? Absolutely. Dwarf citrus, figs, and even dwarf peach trees produce fruit in containers. Choose varieties specifically bred for container growing and ensure full sun (6-8 hours minimum). Expect slightly smaller yields than in-ground trees, but the fruit quality is the same.