How Much Does Tree Trimming Cost? A Homeowner's Real Price Guide

Tree trimming costs $80 to $1,800 per tree for most residential jobs. The national average sits around $475, but in California you’ll pay more. I’ve spent between $250 for a simple deadwood cleanup on a 25-foot ornamental pear and $1,400 for a full crown reduction on a 65-foot Valley Oak that was shading out my entire backyard garden. The difference comes down to tree size, species, access, and how much work the canopy needs.

Here’s what you should actually expect to pay, what drives the price up, and where you can save real money on tree trimming.

What tree trimming costs by size

Height is the biggest factor. A taller tree needs taller equipment, more rope, and more time. Here’s the realistic breakdown for 2026:

• Small tree (under 30 feet): $80 to $500. Ornamental trees, young shade trees, small fruit trees in open areas with good access. A two-person crew handles most of these in an hour or two. Crape Myrtles, Japanese Maples, and small citrus trees fall in this range.
• Medium tree (30 to 60 feet): $200 to $900. This is where most residential trimming jobs land. Mature Birch, medium Oaks, larger Maples, and established fruit trees. Expect a half-day commitment from a three-person crew, often with a bucket truck.
• Large tree (60 to 80 feet): $500 to $1,500. Mature shade trees with wide canopies. The crew needs climbing gear or a bucket truck, and they’ll spend most of the day. Ponderosa Pines, large Valley Oaks, and mature Deodar Cedars hit this tier.
• Very large tree (80 feet and up): $1,000 to $1,800+. Towering Redwoods, old-growth Oaks, and massive Eucalyptus. Some companies won’t even quote these over the phone. They need a site visit to assess the scope.

The hourly rate for a professional crew runs $50 to $125 per person, with a two-person crew in California averaging $165 to $205 per hour. Most companies quote per tree rather than per hour, which is better for you because you know the total upfront.

What drives the price up (or down)

A 50-foot Maple in the middle of a flat backyard costs half what the same tree costs when it’s wedged between your house and the fence with power lines running through the canopy. Here’s what moves the price:

Tree height and canopy spread. The more branches to cut and the higher they are, the longer the job takes. A 50-foot tree with a 40-foot canopy spread has twice the work of a 50-foot columnar tree with a 15-foot spread.

Access. If the crew can park a bucket truck right next to the tree, they’ll finish faster. If they have to haul gear through a narrow gate, carry branches out by hand, and work from climbing ropes because there’s no room for equipment, you’re paying a 25-50% premium.

Proximity to structures. Trees hanging over your roof, fence, or pool require careful directional cutting. Every branch has to be roped and lowered, not dropped. This takes twice as long as open-area trimming.

Power lines. If branches are within 10 feet of power lines, most tree services won’t touch it. You’ll need a line-clearance arborist with specialized certification. More on this in the money-saving section below.

Species and wood hardness. Dense hardwoods like Oak and Maple take longer to cut, produce heavier branches, and wear out chainsaw chains faster. An Oak trim costs 30-50% more than the same size Pine because every cut takes more time and effort.

Tree condition. Dead or diseased branches are brittle and unpredictable. They splinter instead of cutting cleanly. A tree with significant deadwood costs more because the crew has to work more slowly and carefully. How to tell if your tree is dying before the trimming bill turns into a removal bill.

Time of year. Late fall through early March is the slow season for tree services. Crews have open schedules and companies will negotiate to keep their people working. Summer and post-storm periods are peak pricing.

What different species cost to trim

The species matters because wood density, canopy structure, and growth habit all affect how long the job takes.

• Valley Oak or Live Oak: $450 to $1,800. Dense wood, massive canopy spread, heavy branches. The most expensive common trim in Northern California. A mature Valley Oak with a 60-foot canopy can take a full crew an entire day.
• Maple (Sugar, Red, Silver): $400 to $1,200. Hard wood, large canopy, but more manageable branch structure than Oaks. Silver Maple runs cheaper because the softer wood cuts faster.
• Pine (Ponderosa, Monterey): $200 to $1,000. Lighter softwood means faster cuts. Ponderosas get tall, though, so height drives the cost up even as the wood stays easy to work.
• Palm: $100 to $650. No major branch structure. It’s frond removal, dead boot trimming, and seed pod cleanup. A 15-foot palm might run $75 to $150. A 40-foot Royal Palm, $300 to $600.
• Fruit trees (Apple, Peach, Fig, Citrus): $100 to $500. Most backyard fruit trees stay under 25 feet. The pruning is more detailed (shaping for fruit production, not just aesthetics), but the small size keeps costs down. Our complete fruit tree pruning guide covers what you can handle yourself.
• Eucalyptus: $400 to $1,500. Fast-growing, often dangerously tall, with branches that break without warning. If your Eucalyptus hasn’t been trimmed in five years, budget for the high end.

Cost by job type

Not all tree trimming is the same job. Here’s what different services actually cost:

Crown thinning ($200 to $800). Selectively removing 15-25% of branches throughout the canopy to improve air circulation and light penetration. This is the most common maintenance trim. It reduces wind resistance (important for storm-prone areas) and helps the interior branches stay healthy. Most arborists recommend thinning every 3-5 years for mature shade trees.

Crown raising ($150 to $600). Removing the lowest tier of branches to clear sidewalks, driveways, or structures. Straightforward work that doesn’t require climbing the full height of the tree. If branches are dragging on your roof or blocking your walkway, this is what you need.

Crown reduction ($300 to $1,200). Cutting back the outer canopy to reduce the tree’s overall size. More complex than thinning because every cut has to go back to a lateral branch (not just lopped off at random). You need this when a tree has outgrown its space or is interfering with power lines, views, or neighboring properties.

Deadwood removal ($150 to $500). Targeted removal of dead branches only. Less invasive than a full trim, and it’s the single most effective thing you can do for safety. Dead branches fall without warning. If you can see dead limbs from the ground, get them taken out before they land on someone.

Emergency storm work ($500 to $2,000+). A tree that dropped half its canopy on your fence during a wind storm is not a scheduled trim. Emergency crews work nights, weekends, and holidays at a 50-100% premium. The best defense against emergency trimming costs is regular maintenance. Preparing trees before storm season saves real money.

Vista pruning ($300 to $1,000). Selective branch removal to restore a view that’s been swallowed by growth. Common in foothill and hillside properties. This is precise work because you’re keeping the tree but removing specific branches that block sightlines.

DIY vs. professional: where’s the line?

Some trimming jobs are easy DIY. Others will put you in the hospital. Here’s where the line falls.

Safe for homeowners: Any branch you can reach from the ground with a pole pruner (12-16 feet with a standard homeowner model). Branches under 2 inches in diameter. Light shaping and sucker removal. Deadwood cleanup on small trees. Trimming fruit trees under 15 feet tall. A good pole pruner ($50 to $100) and a pair of bypass loppers ($30) pay for themselves after one use compared to a $250 professional visit.

Call a professional for: Anything higher than your pole pruner can reach. Any branch thicker than 4 inches. Any tree near power lines. Any cut that requires a ladder taller than 6 feet. Anything involving a chainsaw above shoulder height. Why tree trimming safety matters is not abstract. Chainsaw injuries send 36,000 people to emergency rooms every year.

The break-even point is roughly $200 to $300. If a professional quotes less than that for a small tree, it’s probably not worth the effort and risk to do it yourself. Above that number, and you have a tree that’s beyond DIY territory anyway.

For timing guidance on when to trim specific species (when to trim your tree), getting the calendar right is free and prevents disease problems that cost real money to fix.

How to hire the right arborist

I’ve hired five tree services over the years. The first two were mediocre. The third was great. The fourth was a disaster. Here’s what I learned.

Get at least three written quotes. Not verbal estimates. Written quotes that spell out exactly which trees, what work, debris hauling, and total cost. When companies know they’re competing, prices drop 10-20%. Compare scope of work line by line. The cheapest bid that excludes debris hauling isn’t actually the cheapest bid.

Verify ISA certification. The International Society of Arboriculture certifies arborists through exams and continuing education. An ISA Certified Arborist understands tree biology, proper cutting technique, and safety practices. Not every good tree worker has the certification, but it’s the most reliable signal.

Require proof of insurance. General liability ($1 million minimum) and workers’ compensation. Call the insurer to verify. If an uninsured worker falls out of your tree, you’re liable for their medical bills. In California, homeowners have been hit with six-figure judgments.

In California, check the contractor’s license. Tree work over $500 requires a C-27 Landscaping or D-49 Tree Service license. Verify at cslb.ca.gov. Takes two minutes.

Red flags that should send you running: Door-to-door solicitation (especially right after storms). Cash-only payments. No written estimate. Suggesting “topping” the tree (cutting the main leader, which destroys tree structure). No hard hats or safety gear on the crew. For a deeper dive on evaluating tree service providers, the same due diligence applies whether you’re trimming or removing.

How to save money on tree trimming

Schedule in the slow season. Book trimming for December through February. Demand drops, and you’ll save 10-20% over peak summer pricing. Bonus: most trees are dormant, so it’s the right time to prune anyway.

Bundle multiple trees. Getting three or four trees trimmed at once typically earns a 10-25% per-tree discount. The crew and equipment are already on site.

Maintain regularly, not reactively. A $300 trim every 3-5 years prevents the $1,200 emergency job when an overgrown branch cracks in a storm. Deferred maintenance always costs more. Think of trimming like oil changes for your car.

Handle cleanup yourself. If you have a truck, ask for a quote that excludes debris hauling. Cut the brush into manageable pieces, stack the logs, and haul it to the green waste facility. Some homeowners save $150 to $400 this way.

Know what your utility company covers. In Sacramento, SMUD will perform safety prunes near high-voltage lines at no charge. PG&E trims trees near their primary distribution lines for free. Call your utility before paying a tree service for work near power lines. The utility handles the top two wires on the pole. Your service drop (the line from the pole to your house) and communication lines are your responsibility.

Do the small stuff yourself. Invest $150 in a pole pruner, bypass loppers, and a hand saw. Handle the small branches, suckers, and deadwood on your own. Save the professional visits for the big jobs. Our tree trimming tips guide covers the basics of making proper cuts.

Trimming vs. removal: when maintenance stops making sense

Regular trimming is cheaper than removal. But at some point, the math flips. If you’re spending $500+ every two years on a tree that keeps producing dead wood, dropping limbs, or growing into your foundation, it might be time to take it out entirely.

Tree removal runs $200 to $3,500 for most residential jobs. That sounds like a lot until you compare it to another decade of escalating trim bills on a tree that’s declining. A $150 arborist consultation can tell you whether your tree has 30 years of healthy life ahead or whether you’re throwing money at something that’s slowly dying.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I have my trees trimmed? Most shade trees benefit from professional trimming every 3-5 years. Fruit trees need annual pruning. Fast-growing species like Eucalyptus and Silver Maple may need attention every 2-3 years. Young trees need structural pruning annually for the first 5-7 years to establish good form.

Is tree trimming tax deductible? Not for most homeowners. If the tree work is on a rental property, it’s deductible as a maintenance expense. If tree trimming is required for a home office or business property, it may be partially deductible. Consult your tax preparer for specifics.

What’s the difference between trimming and pruning? In practice, tree services use them interchangeably. Technically, “pruning” implies selective cuts for tree health (removing dead, diseased, or crossing branches), while “trimming” implies shaping for aesthetics or clearance. You’ll get the same work either way. What matters is communicating exactly what you want done.

Should I tip the tree trimming crew? Not expected, but appreciated. If a crew does excellent work, cleans up thoroughly, and goes above expectations, $20 to $50 per person is generous. Cold drinks and access to a bathroom go a long way too.

Can I trim my neighbor’s tree branches that hang over my property? In California, you have the legal right to trim branches that cross your property line, up to the property line. You cannot enter your neighbor’s property to do it, and you cannot trim so aggressively that it kills the tree. If the tree dies as a result of your trimming, you’re liable for replacement cost. A friendly conversation first prevents a lot of problems.