Best trees and shrubs for shade (including deep shade)

Michael Kahn, Sacramento homeowner and lifelong gardener
Michael Kahn
8 min read
Lush shade garden with large hosta leaves and ferns under a tree canopy

Most tree shopping lists assume you have full sun. Six-plus hours of direct light, south-facing yard, no obstructions. That’s great if you have it. But if your yard sits behind a two-story house, under a mature oak canopy, or on the north side of a fence, those full-sun recommendations are useless.

I’ve dealt with shade on my NorCal property for twenty years. The north side of my house gets maybe three hours of direct sun in summer and zero in winter. The area under my Valley Oak canopy is perpetual dappled shade. Through trial and error I’ve learned what actually grows, what limps along, and what quietly dies.

Here’s the honest guide. But first, you need to understand what “shade” actually means, because it’s not one thing.

Three levels of shade (and why it matters)

Partial shade (4-6 hours of direct sun): This is the easiest shade level to work with. Most “shade tolerant” trees and shrubs actually want partial shade, not complete darkness. Morning sun with afternoon shade is ideal. Afternoon sun with morning shade is harder on plants because afternoon sun is hotter.

Medium shade (2-4 hours of direct sun or filtered light all day): Think: under a high canopy with dappled sunlight. This is where most understory trees naturally grow in the forest. Fewer options here but still workable.

Deep shade (less than 2 hours of direct sun): The north side of a building, under dense evergreens, or in a narrow alley between structures. Very few trees survive here. You’re mostly limited to shade shrubs and groundcovers. The Iowa State Extension guide on shade-suitable plants notes that deciduous trees in deep shade may not develop fall color, because color production needs sunlight to trigger pigment changes.

One important detail: shade under deciduous trees is seasonal. That spot that’s dark in July may get full winter and early spring sun when leaves are off. Many spring-blooming understory trees exploit this window, flowering and setting leaves before the canopy above closes in.

Best trees for partial to medium shade

Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)

Japanese Maple is the single best tree for shady yards. In zones 8-9, it actually prefers partial shade because hot afternoon sun scorches the delicate leaves. Morning sun with afternoon shade is the sweet spot.

Japanese Maple tree with vibrant autumn foliage in a garden setting

Most varieties stay under 25 feet tall. The laceleaf (dissectum) types barely reach 8 feet. ‘Bloodgood’ (deep crimson, 15-20 feet) and ‘Sango-kaku’ (coral bark, golden fall color, 20-25 feet) are the two most reliable cultivars for shade. In deep shade, leaf color becomes more green than red, but the form and structure are still outstanding.

Zones 5-8 (zone 9 with afternoon shade). Budget $50-300 depending on size and cultivar. For the full rundown on fitting Japanese Maples into tight spaces, see our best trees for small yards.

Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)

Redbud is a native understory tree that naturally grows at the edge of woodland canopy. It handles partial shade well and still produces those stunning pink flower clusters on bare branches in early spring.

Grows 20-30 feet tall with a spreading form. The heart-shaped leaves are attractive all season. ‘Forest Pansy’ has deep purple foliage that holds better in partial shade than most purple-leafed trees. Zones 4-9. Budget $50-150. For more spring bloomers, see our spring flowering trees guide.

Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)

Another native woodland-edge tree. Serviceberry grows 15-25 feet tall and delivers four-season interest: white spring flowers, edible purple berries in June, red-orange fall color, and smooth gray bark in winter.

It thrives in partial shade and tolerates medium shade, though flower production decreases in lower light. The multiple species work across a wide range: Downy Serviceberry (A. arborea) handles zones 4-9, and Allegheny Serviceberry (A. laevis) works in zones 4-8. Penn State Extension lists Allegheny Serviceberry on their shade-tolerant tree list. Budget $60-150.

Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida)

Dogwood naturally grows as an understory tree in eastern forests. It doesn’t just tolerate shade. In zones 8-9, it needs afternoon shade to prevent leaf scorch. Morning sun plus afternoon shade produces the best balance of flower production and foliage health.

Grows 15-25 feet tall with horizontal branching that creates beautiful layered structure. White or pink bracts in spring, red berries in fall, interesting bark in winter. Needs acidic, well-drained soil (pH 5.5-6.6). The disease-resistant Kousa Dogwood (C. kousa) is a good alternative that also handles shade. We profiled a remarkable specimen in our Evergreen Dogwood article. Zones 5-9. Budget $100-250.

American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana)

A tough, slow-growing native that handles the deepest shade of any tree on this list. American Hornbeam grows in the forest understory where light levels are consistently low. The smooth, muscular gray bark gives it the common name “Musclewood.”

Grows 20-35 feet tall with a rounded to oval crown. The blue-gray bark and fine-textured leaves make it attractive year-round, with yellow to orange fall color. Tolerates wet sites, clay soil, and urban conditions. Iowa State Extension recommends it as one of the best deciduous trees for partial shade. Zones 3-9. Budget $80-200.

Kousa Dogwood (Cornus kousa)

If Flowering Dogwood has disease problems in your area (anthracnose has killed thousands of C. florida across the eastern US), Kousa Dogwood is the answer. It blooms later (June instead of April) with white bracts similar to Flowering Dogwood, plus it produces raspberry-like edible fruit.

Small trees and flowering shrubs in front of a Victorian-style house

Kousa handles partial shade well and is more disease-resistant than its American cousin. Grows 15-30 feet tall with exfoliating bark that shows tan and brown patches. Zones 5-8. Budget $100-250.

Japanese Snowbell (Styrax japonicus)

An elegant understory tree with white bell-shaped flowers that hang downward in late spring. Best viewed from below, which makes it perfect for a patio where you sit underneath.

Grows 20-30 feet tall with horizontal branching. Tolerates partial to medium shade. Needs moist, acidic, well-drained soil. Slow growing and low maintenance once established. The cultivar ‘Emerald Pagoda’ has larger flowers and leaves. Zones 5-8. Budget $100-250.

Best shrubs for shade

When tree options run thin in deep shade, shrubs fill the gap. These four handle the toughest shade conditions.

Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)

The best flowering shrub for shade. Oakleaf Hydrangea produces large white flower panicles in summer that age to dusty purple by fall. The oak-shaped leaves turn deep red-purple in autumn. It keeps the dried flower heads through winter for four-season interest.

Grows 4-8 feet tall and wide (up to 10+ feet in ideal conditions). More shade tolerant than other hydrangea types. It blooms well even in medium shade, though the best flowering comes with at least 4 hours of morning sun. NC State Plant Toolbox confirms excellent shade performance. Zones 5-9. Budget $30-80.

Witch Hazel (Hamamelis spp.)

Witch Hazel blooms when nothing else will. Depending on the species, flowers appear from October through February, spidery yellow or orange petals that smell sweet on the coldest days.

Native Witch Hazel (H. virginiana) blooms in fall and grows 15-20 feet tall in partial to full shade. Chinese Witch Hazel (H. mollis) blooms in late winter (January-February) with larger, showier flowers. Both handle shade well. Iowa State Extension lists Witch Hazel among the best deciduous shrubs for partial shade. Zones 3-8 depending on species. Budget $40-120.

Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia)

An evergreen native shrub that blooms with clusters of pink or white cup-shaped flowers in late spring. The thick, glossy leaves look good year-round. Mountain Laurel is the state flower of both Connecticut and Pennsylvania.

Grows 5-15 feet tall and wide. Demands acidic soil (pH 4.5-5.5) and good drainage. Won’t survive in alkaline clay. In NorCal, it works in coastal-influenced areas with naturally acidic soil but struggles in the Central Valley without serious soil amendment. Zones 4-9. Budget $30-80.

Fothergilla (Fothergilla spp.)

A native shrub with white bottlebrush-shaped flowers in spring and outstanding fall color in orange, red, and yellow. Often all three colors appear on the same plant. Dwarf Fothergilla (F. gardenii) stays 2-3 feet tall. Large Fothergilla (F. major) reaches 6-10 feet.

Handles partial to medium shade. Fall color is less intense in deep shade but still beats most alternatives. Penn State Extension includes Fothergilla on their shade-tolerant shrub list. Zones 4-8. Budget $25-60.

Designing a shade garden that works

Layer your plantings

Forest canopy has layers: tall canopy trees, understory trees, shrubs, and groundcovers. Your shade garden should mimic this structure.

Top layer: your existing shade source (the house, fence, or large tree creating the shade). Understory tree: Japanese Maple, Redbud, or Dogwood at 15-25 feet. Shrub layer: Oakleaf Hydrangea, Fothergilla, or Witch Hazel at 4-10 feet. Ground layer: hostas, ferns, heuchera, or astilbe.

Accept what shade gives you (and what it doesn’t)

Trees in shade grow slower, produce fewer flowers, and develop less fall color than their sun-grown counterparts. A Japanese Maple in full shade will be green instead of red. A Serviceberry in deep shade will flower less. That’s normal. The trade-off is protection from summer heat stress, less watering, and a cooler microclimate.

Improve your shade site

Before planting, check soil drainage. Shade under large trees often means root competition for water and nutrients. Add 2-3 inches of compost before planting and mulch annually. If you’re planting under existing trees, don’t pile soil over their roots. Keep new plantings at least 3 feet from the trunk of mature trees.

For seasonal care of shade plantings, our spring tree care checklist covers fertilizing and watering schedules that apply to shade gardens too. And for how shade trees impact your property overall, this guide to tree benefits covers the practical advantages of keeping mature shade in your landscape.

Frequently asked questions

What tree grows best in full shade? American Hornbeam handles the deepest shade of any tree. Japanese Maple, Dogwood, and Redbud all handle partial shade well. No tree thrives in complete darkness with zero direct sun. In those conditions, stick with shade shrubs like Oakleaf Hydrangea.

Can you grow fruit trees in shade? Not really. Fruit trees need 6-8 hours of direct sun for decent production. Serviceberry is the exception. It produces edible berries in partial shade, though yields decrease compared to full sun.

Do shade trees need less water? Generally yes. Less sun means less evaporation. But trees planted under existing trees compete for root-zone water. In those spots, water deeply once a week during dry periods. Don’t assume the existing tree’s irrigation is enough for new plantings underneath.

What grows on the north side of a house? In medium shade (2-4 hours sun): Japanese Maple, Dogwood, American Hornbeam. In deep shade (less than 2 hours sun): Oakleaf Hydrangea, Fothergilla, hostas, and ferns. Face the planting bed toward the east wall if possible to capture morning light.

Which shade tree has the best fall color? Japanese Maple for reds and oranges. Serviceberry for red-orange. Witch Hazel for yellow. Fothergilla produces the most varied fall color in the shrub category, sometimes showing yellow, orange, and red on the same plant.

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