How to Protect Trees From Deer: Fencing, Repellents, and What Actually Works

Deer destroy more newly planted trees than any pest or disease. A single whitetail eats up to 4 pounds of woody twigs per day in winter, and a buck rubbing antlers on a 2-inch trunk can girdle and kill a young tree in minutes. If you live anywhere with deer pressure, protecting your trees isn’t optional.

The good news: physical barriers work. Wire cages, tree tubes, and proper fencing stop deer damage completely. Repellents help but don’t eliminate the problem. And some trees are so unappetizing that deer walk right past them.

Here’s what works, what doesn’t, and how much each option costs.

How deer damage trees

Deer damage trees in three distinct ways, and each requires a different defense.

Browsing

Deer eat leaves, buds, and branch tips. The damage looks rough and torn (not cleanly clipped like rabbit damage) because deer lack upper incisors and rip vegetation instead of cutting it. Browsing happens year-round but peaks in late fall through winter when natural food runs out.

Young trees and new transplants take the worst hits. Deer strip terminal buds that control the tree’s shape, and repeated browsing turns a future shade tree into a deformed shrub. The University of Minnesota Extension documents that one adult deer can consume enough woody browse in a single winter to kill multiple young trees.

Buck rub

Male deer rub their antlers on tree trunks to mark territory during the fall rut. They prefer smooth-barked trees 1-4 inches in diameter, which is exactly the size of most newly planted landscape trees. The rubbing shreds bark in a band 18-48 inches above ground. If bark comes off all the way around the trunk (girdling), the tree dies.

Buck rub season runs from late August through November, peaking in October and early November. Bucks prefer aromatic species like cedar, cherry, and pine because the scent carries their territorial markings further. This is separate from velvet shedding, which happens in a 24-hour window in late August or September.

Bark stripping

In severe winters, deer strip bark from trunks as a food source. The damage appears as irregular patches of missing bark, usually below the snow line. Bark stripping is distinct from buck rub: the bark is peeled off cleanly rather than shredded by antlers.

Physical barriers (the only reliable solution)

Every university extension and wildlife agency agrees: physical barriers are the only method that reliably prevents deer damage. Repellents reduce damage. Barriers stop it.

Tree tubes

For bare root seedlings and young transplants, tree tubes are the most effective individual-tree protection. A 5-6 foot solid tube creates a physical barrier deer can’t penetrate while also accelerating growth through the greenhouse effect. Penn State Extension recommends 5-foot minimum height for deer protection. The Miracle Tree Tube 5-pack is a good starting point for homeowners planting a handful of seedlings.

• Cost: $3-6 per tube plus $3-5 per stake
• Best for: Seedlings under 2 feet tall, reforestation projects, new orchard plantings
• Duration: Leave in place 3-5 years until the tree outgrows vulnerability

Wire cages

The best defense against buck rub on established young trees. Use welded wire or hardware cloth with 1/2-inch or smaller openings. Form it into a cylinder 12-18 inches in diameter around the trunk, leaving 2-3 inches of clearance from the bark for growth. Secure with T-posts or wooden stakes.

For browse protection, make the cage 5-6 feet tall. For buck rub only, 4 feet covers the damage zone (18-48 inches above ground).

• Cost: $10-20 per tree (hardware cloth roll at $15-30 covers 2-3 trees)
• Best for: Trees with 1-6 inch trunk diameter, buck rub prevention
• Duration: Leave until trunk exceeds 4 inches diameter (bucks avoid large trunks)

Don’t use lightweight chicken wire. It collapses onto bark and causes its own damage. Welded wire or hardware cloth holds its shape.

Individual tree fencing

For high-value specimen trees or fruit trees, build a wire fence cage at least 4 feet in diameter and 6 feet tall around the tree. The wider diameter keeps deer from reaching branches through the fence. Anchor with T-posts.

• Cost: $30-75 per tree
• Best for: Expensive nursery trees, fruit trees in deer country

Full property deer fencing

If deer are destroying your entire landscape, perimeter fencing is the long-term answer. A deer can clear a 6-foot fence, so the minimum effective height is 7-8 feet. On slopes, add 2-3 feet because deer gain momentum jumping downhill.

Polypropylene mesh fence is the most popular DIY option. Black mesh is nearly invisible against a backdrop of trees. Available in 7-8 foot heights. Materials run $1-2 per linear foot. A 420-foot perimeter (typical quarter-acre yard) costs $600-1,200 for materials and takes a weekend to install.

Woven wire fence is more durable but more expensive. Professional installation runs $6-15 per linear foot. That same quarter-acre perimeter costs $2,500-6,300 installed.

Electric fence is cheaper to install but requires weekly monitoring and a powered energizer. Best for temporary or seasonal protection around orchards and garden plots. Deer learn to navigate between strands over time, so electric fencing is less effective long-term than physical barriers.

Deer repellents

Repellents reduce browsing damage but don’t eliminate it. They’re worth using alongside physical barriers or when fencing isn’t practical. But don’t rely on repellents alone for expensive trees you can’t afford to lose.

What the research says

A Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station study tested 10 commercial repellents on Japanese yew (a deer favorite) and found that Bobbex ranked highest, followed by Hinder, Liquid Fence, and Deer Off. Plantskydd, coyote urine, and several other products performed no better than untreated controls in that study.

The UC Integrated Pest Management program notes that fear-based repellents (rotten egg, dried blood formulations) are typically most effective because they trigger the deer’s predator-avoidance response.

No repellent prevented 100% of browse damage in any study. Physical fencing was the only treatment that fully prevented damage.

Best commercial repellents

Bobbex Deer Repellent (egg protein, garlic, fish meal, clove oil). Rated 93% effective in the Connecticut study. About $25 per quart of concentrate. Apply every 2-3 months.

Liquid Fence Deer & Rabbit Repellent (putrescent egg solids, garlic). Strong smell that fades after drying. About $18 per 40oz concentrate. Apply monthly.

Deer Off (putrescent egg, capsaicin, garlic). Works through both smell and taste. About $15-25 per quart.

Homemade repellent

The University of Minnesota Extension tested this simple recipe: blend 3 whole eggs in water, dilute to 1 gallon, strain, and spray on foliage until leaves have a visible sheen. Reapply every 2 weeks or after heavy rain.

Don’t add garlic, hot pepper, or soap to the egg mixture. UMN found that additional ingredients can mask the egg odor and actually reduce effectiveness. If you want to alternate, use a separate hot pepper spray (8% habanero, 92% water) on a different schedule to prevent deer from getting used to one scent.

Repellent limitations

• Must be reapplied after rain and every 2-4 weeks
• Effectiveness drops in late winter when deer are desperate
• Can’t be used on edible parts of fruit trees near harvest
• Completely useless against buck rub (physical barrier required)

Deer-resistant trees

No tree is 100% deer-proof. When deer are starving in a bad winter, they’ll eat almost anything. But under normal pressure, these species are consistently avoided. The Rutgers deer resistance ratings and Morton Arboretum both maintain tested lists.

Deciduous trees deer avoid

River birch (Betula nigra, zones 4-9). Bitter bark compounds. Fast growing, beautiful peeling bark. One of the best deer-resistant shade trees.

Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba, zones 3-8). Foul-tasting leaves (butyric acid). Male trees only (females drop stinking fruit). Bulletproof urban tree that deer ignore.

Honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos, zones 3-9). Tiny leaflets that deer find unappetizing. Dappled shade lets grass grow underneath. Great for landscaping around trees.

Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua, zones 5-9). Aromatic resin and tough star-shaped leaves. Spectacular fall color. Be warned: the spiky seed balls are a nuisance on walkways.

Sassafras (Sassafras albidum, zones 4-9). Strong aromatic oils in all parts of the tree. Beautiful three-lobed leaves turn orange and red in fall.

Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum, zones 5-9). Bitter, acidic leaves that deer leave alone. White flower chains in summer, brilliant red fall color. An underrated native.

Redbud (Cercis canadensis, zones 4-9). Magenta-pink spring flowers on bare branches. Generally avoided by deer. See our flowering trees guide for more spring bloomers.

Evergreens deer avoid

Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungens, zones 2-8). Sharp, stiff needles irritate deer mouths. The classic deer-proof evergreen.

Norway spruce (Picea abies, zones 2-7). Prickly needles. Fast-growing screening tree.

Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica, zones 5-9). Aromatic, resinous foliage. Elegant pyramidal form.

Green Giant arborvitae (Thuja standishii x plicata, zones 5-8). Unlike eastern arborvitae (which deer devour), Green Giant has some deer resistance. Not bulletproof in high-pressure areas, but far better than ‘Emerald Green.‘

Shrubs deer avoid

Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens, zones 5-8). Toxic alkaloids make deer nauseous. The classic hedge plant for deer country.

Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica, zones 3-7). Aromatic waxy foliage. Native. Birds love the berries.

Juniper (Juniperus spp., zones 2-9). Aromatic, prickly foliage in dozens of forms from ground covers to tall columns. See our columnar evergreen guide for screening options.

Barberry (Berberis spp., zones 4-8). Thorns and bitter alkaloids keep deer away. Check local regulations. Barberry is invasive in some states.

Trees deer love to eat (avoid these in deer country)

Eastern arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis). Deer candy. They’ll strip a 6-foot Emerald Green arborvitae to bare sticks in one winter. If you already planted these in deer territory, cage them or accept the loss.

Yew (Taxus spp.). Heavily browsed despite being toxic to livestock. Deer have adapted to eating it.

Apple and crabapple (Malus spp.). Fruit and bark both attract deer. If you’re growing fruit trees in deer country, individual cages are mandatory.

Rhododendron. A winter staple for deer. They’ll eat it to the ground.

Hostas. Every deer’s favorite perennial. If you’re planting a shade garden under trees, protect hostas or skip them.

When to install protection

At planting. Install protection the same day you plant. Don’t wait to “see if deer are a problem.” By then you’ve already lost the tree. This applies to bare root seedlings, container trees, and everything in between.

By late August for buck rub. Wire cages and trunk guards need to be in place before velvet shedding starts in early September. A wire cage is the most reliable option, but tree wrap adds an extra layer of bark protection on young trunks. Remove or adjust after antlers drop in January-March.

Before first frost for browse. Late winter is when browsing damage is worst. Don’t wait until you see damage. By then the deer have established your yard as a feeding station.

How to repair deer damage

If a deer has already damaged a tree, the prognosis depends on how much bark was removed.

Less than 25% of the trunk circumference damaged: The tree will likely recover on its own. Clean ragged bark edges with a sharp, sterilized knife. Do NOT apply wound dressing, tree paint, or tar. These products slow healing. Leave the wound exposed for the tree’s natural compartmentalization process to seal it. The Morton Arboretum confirms that open wounds heal faster than sealed ones.

More than 50% girdled: The tree will probably die above the damage point. On fruit trees, bridge grafting can save the tree if done in early spring, but it requires grafting experience.

Completely girdled: The top of the tree is dead. Some species (oaks, maples) will resprout from below the damage. Cut the trunk above the girdle and let the strongest sprout grow into a new leader. Not ideal, but better than removing the tree entirely.

The cost of doing nothing

A $40 nursery tree eaten by deer costs $40. Replace it three times and you’ve spent $120 plus your time. A $250 specimen tree destroyed by buck rub costs $250 plus $500-1,500 for removal if it dies. A $15 wire cage or a $5 tree tube would have prevented all of it.

For most homeowners with moderate deer pressure, the right approach is wire cages on individual trees plus repellent spray as backup. For properties surrounded by woods with heavy deer populations, perimeter fencing pays for itself within a few seasons of saved plants. For more on protecting young trees from all threats (not just deer), see our tree sapling protection guide. And for advice on what to do after storm damage that may leave trees vulnerable, that guide covers the recovery basics.