How to Plant a Tree (So It Actually Survives)

Most trees that die in the first two years die because of how they were planted. Not disease. Not drought. Not pests. The hole was too deep, the root flare got buried, nobody watered after the first week, and the tree slowly suffocated underground while the homeowner blamed the nursery for selling a bad tree.

The good news: planting a tree correctly takes about 30 minutes and zero special skills. The technique is the same whether you’re putting in a $40 bare root fruit tree or a $400 balled-and-burlapped oak. Dig the right hole, set it at the right depth, water it properly, and the tree does the rest. Here’s exactly how.

When to plant

Timing depends on your climate zone, and getting it right gives your tree a massive head start.

Zones 3-6 (cold winters): Plant in early spring after the last hard frost but before trees leaf out. Late September through mid-October also works, giving roots time to establish before the ground freezes.

Zones 7-9 (mild winters): Fall planting (October through December) is ideal. Cool air slows top growth while warm soil encourages root development. You go into summer with established roots instead of a stressed transplant fighting heat. In the Sacramento Valley, the Sacramento Tree Foundation’s planting season runs October through March.

Zones 10-11 (warm year-round): Plant during your rainy season, whenever that falls.

Bare root trees have a tighter window. They’re only available during dormancy, roughly December through March in zones 8-10 and February through April in colder zones. Our bare root planting guide covers the specific technique for dormant stock.

Avoid planting in the heat of summer. A tree fighting 95-degree heat while trying to establish roots is a tree in trouble.

Choose your spot before you buy

The most common planting mistake happens before anyone picks up a shovel. People buy a tree, then look for a place to put it. Do it the other way around.

Look up, sideways, and down

Look up: Power lines? A tree that will grow 50 feet tall doesn’t belong under a wire. Your utility company will butcher it into an ugly shape. Check the tree’s mature height against any overhead obstructions.

Look sideways: How far is the house, sidewalk, driveway, and property line? Plant at least half the tree’s mature canopy width away from any structure. A red maple with a 40-foot spread needs to be planted at least 20 feet from your house. A Green Giant arborvitae with a 15-foot base spread needs 10 feet from the fence.

Look down: Where are your water lines, sewer lines, and septic system? Tree roots go where the water is. Call 811 before you dig. It’s free, it’s the law in most states, and it takes 2-3 business days. They’ll mark underground utilities with paint or flags so you don’t hit a gas line with your shovel. For an overview of how tree placement fits into the bigger picture, these landscaping fundamentals cover practical site planning.

Test your drainage

Poor drainage kills more trees than drought. Before you plant, dig a test hole 18 inches deep and fill it with water. If the water hasn’t drained by the next morning, you have a drainage problem. Either choose a species that tolerates wet feet (bald cypress, river birch, willow oak) or pick a different spot.

Don’t add gravel to the bottom of the planting hole to “improve drainage.” The University of Minnesota Extension warns this actually decreases oxygen availability to the roots and makes the problem worse.

Container, balled-and-burlapped, or bare root

Trees come in three forms at the nursery. Each has a different planting method.

Container-grown trees come in plastic pots (typically 5 to 25 gallons). They’re available year-round and are the most common at retail nurseries. Most container trees are under 2-inch caliper. Cost: $50-150 for typical landscape trees.

Balled-and-burlapped (B&B) trees are field-grown, then dug with a soil ball wrapped in burlap and secured with a wire basket. This is how most large landscape trees (2-inch caliper and up) are sold. Cost: $150-500+ depending on size and species.

Bare root trees ship with no soil at all. They cost 40-60% less than container stock and establish faster when planted correctly. Only available during dormancy. Our complete bare root planting guide covers the technique in detail.

Dig the hole right

This is where most people go wrong. The hole matters more than the tree.

Width: Dig it 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball. On compacted soil, go 3 to 5 times wider. Roots grow outward, not down. Ninety percent of a tree’s root system occupies the top 12-18 inches of soil. A wide hole with loosened sides gives those lateral roots an easy path.

Depth: Dig it exactly as deep as the root ball. No deeper. The root flare (where the trunk widens at the base, just above the roots) must sit at or slightly above ground level after planting. Set the root ball on undisturbed soil at the bottom so it doesn’t settle.

Sides: Rough up the sides of the hole with a garden fork. In clay soil, the shovel glazes the sides smooth, and that smooth wall acts like a pot. Roots hit it and circle instead of penetrating. Scarify the sides. Give the roots something to grip.

Planting a container tree

Remove the pot. Lay the tree on its side and slide it out. If it won’t budge, cut the container with tin snips.

Now inspect the root ball. Container trees often have roots circling the inside of the pot. If you plant those circling roots as-is, they’ll keep circling. Five years later they’ll strangle the trunk from the inside. Arborists call these girdling roots, and they kill trees that look perfectly healthy above ground.

Penn State Extension recommends shaving the outer edge of the root ball with a saw to cut through circling roots. You can also make 4-5 vertical cuts around the sides with a sharp knife, then an X-shaped cut across the bottom. Either way, you need to break that circular pattern before planting.

Find the root flare. It should be visible at the top of the root ball. If the tree was potted too deep at the nursery (common), scrape away soil from the top until you see the first major roots flaring out from the trunk.

Set the tree in the hole. The root flare should be at or just above the surrounding soil surface. Step back and check that the trunk is straight. Rotate the tree so its best side faces the direction you’ll see it from most.

Planting a balled-and-burlapped tree

Set the root ball in the hole first, then remove the wrapping materials. Trying to unwrap a 300-pound root ball before lowering it into the hole is how trees get dropped and root balls get cracked.

Once the B&B tree is positioned in the hole with the trunk vertical:

1. Cut the wire basket with bolt cutters. Remove at least the top third. Some arborists remove the entire basket. At minimum, cut and fold back everything above the soil line.

2. Remove all twine and string from around the trunk. Forgotten twine girdles trunks as they grow. This happens constantly.

3. Pull back the burlap from the top third of the root ball and cut it away. Check whether it’s natural or synthetic. Natural burlap turns to ash when you touch a match to it. Synthetic burlap melts into a shiny bead. Synthetic burlap will not decompose and must be removed completely or it blocks root growth.

4. Find the root flare. Just like with container trees, scrape away any excess soil from the top of the root ball until the first major roots are visible. Position the root flare at or slightly above grade.

Backfill with native soil

This is where most people overthink it. Refill the hole with the same soil you dug out. That’s it.

Do not add peat moss, potting soil, bark, compost, or amendments to the planting hole. Oregon State Extension explains why: amending only the planting hole creates a “bathtub effect.” The fluffy amended soil holds water while the surrounding native soil won’t drain it. Roots grow fast through the easy soil but can’t penetrate the hard native soil beyond. You end up with a root-bound tree in the ground.

Clemson HGIC confirms: backfill with native soil and do not amend the backfill. Amended backfill causes soil structure problems that lead to plant failure.

Your native soil is what the tree has to live in for the next 50 to 200 years. Let it get used to that soil from day one.

Backfill in stages. Add soil, tamp gently with your foot, add more. Eliminate air pockets without compacting the soil into concrete. Air pockets around roots mean those roots dry out and die. Overcompacting means roots can’t grow through.

Do not fertilize at planting. New roots are fragile and fertilizer burns them. Wait until the tree has leafed out and you see at least 6 inches of new growth, usually by late spring of the first year. Then apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer at the drip line. Our tree fertilizer guide covers the right products and timing.

Water correctly (this is what saves the tree)

After backfilling, create a water-holding basin by mounding soil in a ring 3-4 inches high at the edge of the planting hole. Fill this basin with water and let it soak in completely. Fill it again. You want the entire root zone saturated. This first watering also settles the soil around the roots and collapses any remaining air pockets.

If the tree settles and the root flare drops below grade after watering, pull the tree up gently before the water fully drains. Get it right now because you won’t want to dig it up later.

The watering schedule that keeps new trees alive

The University of Minnesota Extension provides the clearest guidance:

First 2 weeks: Water every day. Apply 1 to 1.5 gallons per inch of trunk caliper at each watering.

Weeks 3-14: Water every 2-3 days.

After 14 weeks: Water once per week until roots are established.

Establishment timeline: For each inch of trunk caliper, the tree needs approximately 1 to 1.5 years to fully establish. A typical 2-inch caliper landscape tree needs 2-3 years of supplemental watering before it can handle itself.

In the Sacramento Valley and other hot interior California zones, you may need to water more frequently during summer when temperatures exceed 100 degrees. Young trees with limited root systems can’t access deep groundwater yet. If you notice brown leaf tips despite consistent watering, your tap water’s chlorine levels could be the culprit. Our guide on chlorine effects on trees explains the symptoms and solutions. For ongoing seasonal care, see our spring tree care checklist.

Mulch the right way

Spread a 2-4 inch layer of mulch in a wide ring from 3-4 inches away from the trunk out to the edge of the planting hole (or wider). Arborist wood chips are the best mulch for trees. They’re often free from local tree services. Shredded bark, straw, or composted leaves work too. Skip rubber mulch and dyed wood chips.

Keep mulch away from the trunk. This is non-negotiable. Mulch piled against bark holds moisture, causes crown rot, fungal infections, and vole damage. The mulch ring should look like a donut, not a volcano. Flat or slightly concave. Trunk visible and dry.

You’ll see “mulch volcanoes” piled against tree trunks in every parking lot and subdivision in America. They’re all wrong. Every university extension service says the same thing: keep mulch 3-4 inches from the trunk. This one detail prevents more tree problems than almost anything else you’ll do.

Staking: you probably don’t need it

Most newly planted trees don’t need staking. The ISA recommends staking only when the tree can’t stand upright on its own, the root ball is too small to anchor it, or the site is exposed to persistent strong wind.

A trunk that sways in the wind develops stronger wood than one held rigid by stakes. Movement builds taper and structural strength.

If you do stake, use two stakes on opposite sides, about 18 inches from the trunk. Attach the tree loosely with wide, flexible ties (old t-shirt strips, commercial tree ties, or broad webbing). Not wire. Not string. The tree should be able to sway. Tie at the lowest point on the trunk that keeps the tree upright.

Remove stakes after one growing season. Mark your calendar. Forgotten stakes and ties girdle more young trees than any pest or disease. Penn State Extension is emphatic: always remove all stakes and supports after the first year. Never wrap wire or other support tightly around a plant stem. For the right knots and tie materials that hold without girdling, see our tree staking guide.

Common mistakes that kill new trees

These are the problems arborists see over and over. Most are preventable.

Planting too deep. The root flare gets buried. Crown rot follows. This is the number one killer of new landscape trees. The University of Minnesota Extension stresses that the root flare must be visible above the soil line. If your tree trunk goes straight into the ground like a telephone pole, it’s too deep.

Amending the planting hole. Native soil only. Amendments create root-trapping pockets and the bathtub effect in clay soils. Every major extension service says the same thing.

Not watering after the first week. Trees need consistent water for 1-3 years after planting. The first week of watering isn’t enough. Most trees die between month two and month six when homeowners forget.

Mulch volcanoes. Mulch piled against the trunk causes bark decay. Keep a 3-4 inch gap.

Forgetting to remove wire, twine, and tags. That little metal nursery tag will girdle the branch as it grows. That twine around the B&B trunk will strangle it within 2-3 years. Remove everything.

Leaving circling roots on container trees. Circling roots don’t straighten out on their own. They keep circling and eventually strangle the tree. Score or shave the root ball before planting.

Fertilizing at planting. Fertilizer burns new roots. Wait until you see active growth.

What a professional installation costs

You can plant a tree yourself for the cost of the tree plus a shovel. But if you’re dealing with a large B&B tree, hard soil, or lack the physical ability, professional installation is worth considering.

A nursery tree itself runs $50-150 for container stock, $150-500+ for B&B trees, and $25-45 for bare root. Professional planting and installation typically adds $100-300 per tree depending on size and site difficulty. Many nurseries include planting in the purchase price for trees above a certain size.

The real investment is the aftercare. A properly planted $80 tree with 2 years of consistent watering will outperform a $400 tree that gets neglected after week one. The Arbor Day Foundation estimates that each dollar spent on tree planting and care returns $2-5 in property value, energy savings, and environmental benefits.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best month to plant a tree? In zones 7-9 (including Northern California), October and November are ideal. Cool air slows top growth while warm soil encourages root development. In cold-winter climates (zones 3-6), early spring (March-April) or early fall (September-October) work best. Avoid planting in summer heat.

How deep should the hole be? Exactly as deep as the root ball and no deeper. The root flare (where the trunk widens into roots) must be visible at or slightly above the soil surface. Planting too deep is the number one killer of new trees.

Should I add soil amendments to the planting hole? No. Use native soil only. Amendments create a soil boundary that traps roots and holds excess water. Every major university extension program recommends backfilling with the original soil you dug out.

How often should I water a newly planted tree? Daily for the first 2 weeks, every 2-3 days for the next 12 weeks, then weekly until established. Apply 1-1.5 gallons per inch of trunk caliper at each watering. A 2-inch caliper tree gets 2-3 gallons per session.

Do I need to stake a new tree? Usually not. Stake only if the tree can’t stand upright on its own or the site is very windy. If you do stake, use flexible ties, attach them loosely, and remove everything after one year.

How long until a new tree is established? About 1 to 1.5 years per inch of trunk caliper. A 2-inch caliper tree takes 2-3 years to establish. During that time, it needs supplemental watering. After establishment, most trees handle normal rainfall on their own.

Can I plant a tree in summer? You can, but survival rates are lower. Summer heat stresses transplants while they’re trying to establish roots. If you must plant in summer, water more frequently and consider a temporary shade screen for the first few weeks. Container trees handle summer planting better than B&B or bare root.

How far from the house should I plant a tree? At least half the tree’s mature canopy spread. A tree with a 40-foot spread should be planted at least 20 feet from any structure. For trees near sidewalks, check our guide to best trees to plant near the sidewalk. For help choosing the right species for your yard, see which trees to plant in your yard or browse our complete guide to types of trees.

Plant the right tree in the right spot at the right depth, water it consistently for two years, and you’re set for decades. The 30 minutes you spend planting correctly saves you the $3,000 you’d spend removing the tree that failed because of a buried root flare. Take your time. Measure twice. And keep that hose handy for the first two summers.