How to Cut Down a Tree Safely: A Step-by-Step Felling Guide for Homeowners

Cutting down a tree is one of the most dangerous things a homeowner can do. That’s not a scare tactic. Between 2018 and 2022, nearly 128,000 people ended up in U.S. emergency rooms for chainsaw injuries. That’s roughly 70 people per day. The average chainsaw wound requires 110 stitches. Forty percent of those injuries hit the legs, 35% the left hand and wrist.

The people getting hurt aren’t mostly professionals. They’re homeowners in their late 40s working on their own property on a Saturday, usually between March and October. Ninety-five percent are men.

So why am I writing a guide about doing it yourself? Because some trees genuinely are a DIY job. A 20-foot dead plum tree in the middle of your backyard, leaning slightly into open space with no power lines anywhere near it, doesn’t need a $1,500 professional crew. It needs a homeowner who knows what they’re doing, has the right gear, and respects the physics involved.

This guide is for small to medium trees in open areas. If any part of your situation doesn’t fit that description, skip to the section on when to call a pro instead.

Can you legally cut this tree down?

Before you touch a chainsaw, check your local tree ordinances. Many cities protect trees above a certain diameter. In California, permit requirements vary by jurisdiction with diameter thresholds ranging from 6 inches to 19 inches measured at breast height (about 4.5 feet above the ground).

Heritage trees get special protection everywhere. Fines for removing a protected tree without a permit can reach $30,000 per tree in some California jurisdictions, and some cities calculate penalties based on the tree’s appraised value using the Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers method. A mature heritage oak can appraise at $30,000 to $60,000.

Call your city’s planning or public works department. Ask if the tree is protected. This takes five minutes and can save you tens of thousands of dollars. Our tree removal guide covers heritage tree protections in more detail.

Also call 811 before any stump grinding or root work afterward. It’s the national “Call Before You Dig” hotline, and it’s free. Utility locators will mark buried gas, water, and electrical lines on your property within a few business days.

Should you do this yourself?

Here’s the honest assessment. You can safely fell a tree yourself if ALL of these conditions are true:

• The tree is under 30 feet tall. Taller trees generate forces that are difficult to control without professional rigging.
• The trunk is under 18 inches in diameter. Larger trunks require wedge techniques and more powerful chainsaws than most homeowners own.
• The tree is in open space. At least 1.5 times the tree’s height of clear area in the fall direction. No structures, no fences, no other trees it could hang up on.
• No power lines within 50 feet. If you can see power lines from the tree, call a pro. Utility line work is never DIY. One contact with a power line is fatal.
• The tree leans slightly in the direction you want it to fall, or stands straight. A tree that leans opposite your intended fall direction requires advanced techniques.
• You have proper safety gear (not optional, listed below).
• You have a helper. Never fell a tree alone. Your helper watches for hazards above and behind you, since you can’t hear warnings over a chainsaw even with hearing protection.

If any of these conditions aren’t met, hire a professional. The cost difference between a professional tree removal and a trip to the emergency room isn’t even close.

What safety gear do you need?

Penn State Extension identifies chainsaws as among the most dangerous tools people commonly own, yet most homeowners operate them without training and without knowing that specialized protective gear exists. Don’t be one of them.

Required gear (non-negotiable):

• Chainsaw chaps. These are Kevlar-lined leg protectors. They don’t resist cutting. They work by jamming the chain when it contacts the Kevlar fibers, stopping the chain from spinning before it penetrates your leg. Must carry a UL (Underwriters Laboratory) certification. Budget $60 to $120.
• Logger’s helmet with face screen and ear muffs. Falling branches and debris drop unpredictably during cutting. The face screen protects from wood chips. The muffs protect your hearing. All-in-one units run $40 to $70.
• Heavy-duty gloves. They provide cut resistance, better grip on a vibrating saw, and reduce hand fatigue that degrades your control during extended cutting.
• Steel-toed boots with ankle support. Logging boots have cut-resistant uppers. At minimum, wear steel-toed work boots with good ankle support. No sneakers, no sandals, no exceptions.
• Eye protection. Safety glasses under the face screen. Wood chips get past the mesh.

The complete PPE setup costs $150 to $300. That’s the cost of about 1.5 stitches at an emergency room.

What equipment do you need?

• Chainsaw with a bar at least 2 inches longer than the tree’s diameter. A 16-to-20-inch bar handles most residential trees under 18 inches in diameter. Chain must be sharp. A dull chain forces you to push harder, increasing fatigue and kickback risk.
• Felling wedges. Plastic wedges you tap into the back cut to prevent the saw from getting pinched and to help push the tree in the right direction. Available at any outdoor power equipment store for $10 to $20.
• Sledgehammer or maul. For driving the wedges. Don’t use a metal hammer on plastic wedges. A small hand maul works fine.
• Rope (optional but smart). A 100-foot length of 3/4-inch polypropylene rope tied high in the tree and pulled by your helper gives extra directional control. Useful for straight-standing trees that don’t have a natural lean.
• First aid kit. Including trauma supplies: pressure bandages, tourniquet, and your phone charged and on your person. Not in the house.

How to plan the fall

This is where most DIY mistakes happen. People pick up the saw and start cutting without planning. The USDA Forest Service formalizes tree felling into a 5-step process, and the first three steps happen before you make a single cut.

Step 1: Assess the tree.

Stand back and study it from two directions at 90 degrees apart. Check for:

• Natural lean. Trees rarely stand perfectly straight. Even a slight lean influences fall direction. The easiest and safest approach is to fell the tree in the direction it already leans.
• Crown weight distribution. More branches on one side means more weight pulling that direction.
• Dead branches above. Dead limbs (widowmakers) can break free during cutting and fall on you. If you see significant dead wood in the crown, stop and hire a pro.
• Wind. Don’t fell trees in wind over 10 mph. Even moderate wind can push a tree off its intended line during the fall.

A simple trick from professional fallers: hold a plumb line (any weight on a string) at arm’s length and sight it against the trunk from two angles 90 degrees apart. This shows you the tree’s true lean with more accuracy than eyeballing it.

Step 2: Clear the felling zone.

The felling zone is twice the tree’s estimated height in the fall direction. Clear everything that could be damaged: patio furniture, planters, kids’ toys, garden hoses. Mark the zone so your helper and anyone else stays out.

Step 3: Plan and clear two escape routes.

This is the step that saves lives. The USDA Forest Service’s “90-15-5 rule” says 90% of tree felling accidents happen within the first 15 seconds after the tree starts moving and within 5 feet of the trunk. Your escape routes get you away from that kill zone.

Plan two paths at 45-degree angles away from the fall direction, angling back from the stump. Clear each path completely. Remove branches, rocks, garden hoses, anything you could trip on. You need to move fast without looking down. Walk each route twice before cutting so you know it by feel.

How to make the notch cut

The notch cut (also called face cut) goes on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. It creates a wedge-shaped opening that controls the fall.

For homeowners, the conventional notch is the right technique. It’s the most widely taught and the easiest to execute:

1. Make the top cut first. Angle the chainsaw downward at roughly 45 degrees into the trunk, cutting to a depth of about one-third of the trunk’s diameter. Aim it in the exact direction you want the tree to fall. Use the gunning sight technique: look along the top of the chainsaw’s handle like you’re sighting down a rifle barrel. Where the bar touches the bark when the handle points at your target is the center of your notch.

2. Make the bottom cut. Cut horizontally into the trunk to meet the bottom of your angled cut. When done correctly, a wedge-shaped piece of wood drops out cleanly. If it doesn’t drop out freely, your cuts didn’t meet. Back out and adjust.

The resulting notch should be a clean V-shape opening toward the fall direction, penetrating about one-third into the trunk.

What about other notch types? The open-face notch (70 to 90 degree opening) maintains hinge control through nearly 90 degrees of the tree’s fall, compared to only 30 degrees for the conventional notch. Professional fallers prefer it for difficult trees. But it requires precise angle matching between two angled cuts, and if your angles don’t meet cleanly, you’re in trouble. Stick with the conventional notch for residential work.

How to make the back cut (felling cut)

The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. This is the cut that actually fells the tree.

1. Position yourself on the side of the tree, not directly behind the back cut. Trees can kick back off the stump.
2. Start the cut about 1 to 2 inches above the bottom of the notch. This height difference is critical. It creates a step that prevents the tree from sliding backward off the stump toward you.
3. Cut horizontally inward, but stop before you cut all the way through. You need to leave a strip of uncut wood between the back cut and the notch. This is the hinge.

The hinge is everything. It’s the strip of wood that guides the tree’s fall. The hinge width should equal about 10% of the trunk diameter. For a 12-inch tree, leave a 1.2-inch hinge. For an 18-inch tree, leave about 1.8 inches. Cut too thin and the tree falls uncontrolled. Cut all the way through and the tree drops wherever physics takes it.

For trees over 18 inches in diameter: Start the back cut normally. As soon as the kerf (the slot cut by the saw) is deep enough, stop cutting. Lock the chain brake. Insert a felling wedge behind the bar. Then continue cutting. The wedge prevents the tree from settling back and pinching your bar, and once you’ve finished the cut, tapping the wedge drives the tree toward the fall direction.

As the tree starts to lean, pull the saw free immediately. Set the chain brake. Do not wait to see what happens. Turn and walk briskly (don’t run) along your cleared escape route at a 45-degree angle away from the fall. Watch the tree over your shoulder. Shout “timber” so your helper knows to stay clear.

What to do if things go wrong

Two scenarios scare experienced fallers. Both can happen to anyone.

Hung-up tree (leaners). The tree starts to fall but catches on another tree or its branches lock into a neighboring canopy. A hung tree is under tension and can release without warning. Do not try to cut the tree it’s leaning against. Do not try to cut the hung tree further. Do not try to pull it free with a rope attached to your truck (this has killed people). Back away on your escape route and call a professional. A hung tree requires specialized rigging to bring down safely. This is not a failure on your part. It’s a hazard that even professionals treat with extreme respect.

Barber chair. The trunk splits vertically up the middle during the back cut instead of hinging and falling. This launches a slab of wood upward and outward toward the operator. Barber chairs are most common in trees with internal decay, heavy lean, or when the hinge is cut too thin. Standing to the side of the back cut (not behind it) is your primary defense. If you hear splitting sounds during the back cut, stop cutting immediately, set the chain brake, and get away on your escape route.

How to limb and buck safely

Once the tree is down, you’re not done with the dangerous part. Limbing (removing branches) and bucking (cutting the trunk into sections) account for a significant portion of chainsaw injuries.

Limbing rules:

• Work from the base of the tree toward the top.
• Stand on the uphill side when possible.
• Keep the trunk between you and the limb you’re cutting.
• Watch for branches under tension. A bent branch pinned under the trunk can spring back violently when cut.
• Never cut with the tip of the bar. That’s where kickback happens.

Bucking rules:

• Determine which side of the log is under compression (being squeezed) and which is under tension (being stretched). A log resting on two supports sags in the middle: the top is under compression, the bottom under tension. Cut from the compression side first to prevent the kerf from pinching your bar.
• For logs on the ground, cut three-quarters through from the top, then roll the log and finish from the other side.
• Never stand on the log while cutting.

What to do after the tree is down

You’ve felled the tree, limbed it, and bucked it into manageable sections. Now what?

The stump. You have three options: grind it, remove it chemically, or leave it. Grinding is the fastest. A rented stump grinder takes a 24-inch stump down below grade in about 30 minutes and costs $150 to $300 for a half-day rental. Our stump removal guide covers all three methods in detail.

The wood. Hardwood sections make good firewood if split and seasoned for 6 to 12 months. Stack it off the ground on a rack or pallets, bark side up. Softwood burns too fast and creates more creosote. If you don’t want the wood, many local tree services will pick up large logs for free since they can mill or sell them.

The hole. Fill the stump area with topsoil after grinding. Don’t plant a new tree in the same spot for at least one growing season. The decomposing wood chips rob nitrogen from the soil, and new roots struggle in that environment. When you’re ready to replant, our tree planting guide walks you through doing it right.

Brush disposal. Most cities limit green waste bins to 65 gallons and won’t accept anything over 4 inches in diameter. Renting a chipper ($200 to $400 per day) lets you process branches into mulch for your garden. Or check if your city has a bulk green waste pickup schedule.

When should you call a professional instead?

Hire a certified arborist for any of these situations:

• Tree is taller than 30 feet. The forces involved scale dramatically with height.
• Trunk diameter exceeds 18 inches. Large trunks require more powerful equipment and wedge techniques.
• Power lines are within 50 feet. Utility work is never DIY. Contact with a power line is lethal and can kill people standing nearby through ground current.
• Tree leans heavily away from your desired fall direction. Correcting lean requires bore cuts and advanced wedge placement that’s beyond DIY scope.
• The tree is within 20 feet of any structure. Houses, garages, sheds, fences. Professional crews use rigging to lower sections on ropes, and large jobs require a crane.
• Significant decay is visible. Mushrooms on the trunk, soft spots, cavities, or signs the tree is dead. Decayed trees behave unpredictably during felling.
• Multiple trunks. Codominant stems or multi-trunk trees create complex weight distributions.
• The tree was damaged in a storm. Storm-weakened trees have internal fractures that aren’t visible from outside.

Professional tree removal costs $200 to $3,500 for most residential jobs. Our 10 things to know about tree removal covers what to look for in a company, what insurance they need, and how to avoid storm chasers. For help evaluating contractors, this guide to choosing a tree care service covers the questions to ask.

Frequently asked questions

How do you cut down a small tree safely? For trees under 15 feet, the process is the same but simpler. Wear full safety gear, make a notch cut on the side facing your fall direction, then a back cut from the opposite side leaving a 10% hinge. Even small trees can cause serious injury. A 6-inch diameter limb that’s 8 feet long can weigh over 100 pounds.

What size tree can I cut down myself? Most homeowner chainsaws with 16-to-20-inch bars can handle trees up to 18 inches in diameter. The general DIY limit is 30 feet tall in open space with no utilities nearby. Anything larger, closer to structures, or near power lines needs a professional.

Do I need a permit to cut down a tree in my yard? In most jurisdictions, yes. Requirements vary by city and county. California diameter thresholds range from 6 to 19 inches. Heritage trees require permits everywhere. Contact your local planning department before cutting. Fines for removing a protected tree without a permit can reach $30,000.

What is the notch cut when felling a tree? The notch cut (or face cut) is a wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree facing the intended fall direction. It consists of a 45-degree angled top cut and a horizontal bottom cut that meet at one-third of the trunk’s depth. This wedge guides the tree’s fall direction when the back cut releases the opposite side.

What is the most dangerous part of cutting down a tree? The 15 seconds after the tree starts moving. The USDA Forest Service’s 90-15-5 rule states that 90% of felling accidents happen within 15 seconds of the tree beginning to fall and within 5 feet of the trunk. Having cleared escape routes at 45-degree angles from the fall direction is the primary defense.

Can I cut down a tree close to my house? Not safely as a DIY job. Any tree within 20 feet of a structure requires professional removal with rigging equipment to lower sections on ropes. Trees within 10 feet of the house often need crane-assisted removal. The cost is $2,000 to $5,000, but it’s the only safe approach.