Emerald Green Arborvitae: the best privacy tree you can plant for under $40

Emerald Green Arborvitae is the most-planted privacy hedge tree in American yards, and for good reason. It stays narrow, holds green color through winter, costs under $40 at most nurseries, and requires almost no pruning. You see them everywhere from Minnesota to Virginia, usually in a row of 8-15 trees along a property line.

But Emerald Green has real limitations that nursery tags don’t mention. Deer eat it like popcorn. It grows slowly. It struggles in heat. And the number one cause of failure is something most homeowners do wrong at planting. Here’s the complete guide.

Quick-reference profile:

• Botanical name: Thuja occidentalis ‘Smaragd’ (also sold as ‘Emerald’, ‘Emerald Green’)
• Mature size: 12-14 feet tall, 3-4 feet wide
• Growth rate: 6-9 inches per year (slow to moderate)
• Zones: 3a-7b
• Sun: Full sun (6+ hours) to partial shade (4-6 hours)
• Soil: Moist, well-drained, pH 6.0-8.0
• Deer resistant: No. Not even close.
• Cost: $25-50 per tree (5-gallon container)

Where this tree comes from

Emerald Green was selected as a seedling in 1950 by D.T. Poulsen Nursery in Kvistgaard, Denmark. “Smaragd” is Danish for “emerald,” a reference to the rich green color that holds through winter when most other arborvitae varieties bronze out.

The parent species, Thuja occidentalis (Northern White-Cedar), is native to eastern North America. French explorers in the 1500s reportedly used its vitamin-C-rich foliage to treat scurvy, earning it the Latin name “arborvitae,” which translates to “tree of life.” The USDA Plants Database maps the native range from the Great Lakes through the Northeast and into the Appalachians.

The Danish breeders selected ‘Smaragd’ for better winter color retention, denser form, and a narrower habit than the straight species. It became one of the best-selling landscape evergreens in the US by the 1990s, and it hasn’t slowed down since.

How big does it actually get?

This is where expectations meet reality.

The Missouri Botanical Garden lists ‘Smaragd’ at “most often 7-15 feet tall, infrequently to 20 feet.” In practice, most Emerald Greens top out at 12-14 feet in a residential yard after 15-20 years.

Growth rate: 6-9 inches per year vertically once established. In the first 2-3 years, young trees may put on 12-24 inches per year as they settle in, then slow down. Side growth runs 4-6 inches per year.

Real-world timeline from a 3-4 foot nursery tree:

• Year 1: 3-4 feet (what you bought)
• Year 5: 5-7 feet
• Year 10: 8-10 feet
• Year 15: 10-12 feet
• Year 20+: 12-15 feet

Sun exposure matters more than anything for growth rate. Six or more hours of direct sun gives you 10-12 inches per year. Four to six hours slows it to 6-8 inches. Less than four hours of sun and you’re looking at under 4 inches per year with increased risk of winter bronzing and thin, leggy growth.

How to plant Emerald Green Arborvitae

Spacing

This is the most common question and the answer depends on what you want:

• Dense privacy hedge: 3-4 feet apart, center to center. Trees touch and form a solid screen within 5-7 years.
• Tight formal hedge: 2-2.5 feet apart. Creates a wall faster but requires trimming up to 5 times per year.
• Looser natural screen: 4-5 feet apart. Takes 8-10 years to fill in but looks less formal.
• Staggered double row: Zig-zag pattern with 4-5 feet between rows. Creates a thicker barrier faster.

Best time to plant

Fall is ideal (September-October in most zones). The tree faces less heat stress and has time to establish roots before winter dormancy. Early spring (March-April) is second best. Avoid summer planting if possible. If you must plant in summer, water twice weekly at minimum. For detailed planting technique, see our bare root planting guide.

Planting depth (the number one killer)

This is where most people lose their Emerald Greens. Dig the hole 2x the width of the root ball but no deeper than the root ball height. The root flare (where the trunk widens into the roots) must sit at or slightly above the soil line, ideally 2-3 inches above grade.

Check for buried root flare before planting. Nurseries often pile extra soil around the trunk. Gently remove it to expose the flare. Planting too deep leads to crown rot, poor establishment, and slow death over 2-3 years. The Oregon State Extension arborvitae guide emphasizes this point specifically.

Backfill with native soil mixed with compost if your soil drains poorly. Mulch 2-3 inches around the base, keeping it 3-4 inches away from the trunk.

Year-round care guide

Watering

First year: Water twice weekly with a slow drip or soaker hose. Don’t rely on lawn sprinklers. The root zone needs deep, thorough soaking.

Established trees (year 2+): About 1 inch of water per week. During drought, supplement with deep watering every 7-10 days.

The critical fall watering that most people skip: Water deeply in late October and November before the ground freezes. Dry soil going into winter is the number one cause of winter burn. The foliage continues losing moisture through transpiration all winter, but frozen soil prevents roots from replacing it. Going into winter well-hydrated prevents most winter browning.

Fertilizing

Apply slow-release granular fertilizer in early spring (March-April), before new growth emerges. UConn Extension recommends high-nitrogen formulas (10-5-5 or similar) for evergreen foliage. Broadcast evenly over the root zone and water in.

Don’t fertilize after June. Late-season fertilizer pushes new growth that won’t harden off before winter, increasing cold damage. For general fertilizing guidance, see our spring tree care tips.

Pruning

Emerald Green requires minimal pruning. The natural pyramidal form stays tight without intervention. Light shaping in early spring (late February-March) if needed for hedge uniformity. Can do a second light touch-up trim in early summer.

The rule that saves trees: never cut into old bare wood. Arborvitae will not regenerate from brown stems. Only prune green growth. Never remove more than one-third of branch length at one time. Penn State Extension has detailed pruning guidelines for needled evergreens. For general timing, see our guide on when to trim your tree.

Winter protection

Winter burn

Winter burn is the most common problem with Emerald Green Arborvitae. The foliage turns brown, usually on the south, southwest, or west-facing side. It’s caused by frozen ground (roots can’t absorb water) combined with sun and wind (foliage loses moisture through transpiration).

Prevention: deep fall watering, 3 inches of mulch over the root zone, and anti-desiccant spray like Wilt-Pruf applied in late November. If browning happens, don’t prune the brown branches until late spring or early summer. Scratch the bark. If green underneath, the branch will recover. If brown all the way through, cut back to the nearest live growth.

Snow and ice splitting

Emerald Green’s narrow form is prone to splaying open under heavy wet snow or ice. MSU Extension recommends wrapping trees with jute twine in a spiral from base to tip before heavy storms.

During storms, gently sweep snow upward from the base with a broom. Never shake or hit the branches because frozen branches snap. Remove the twine in spring. For more storm preparation, read our guide on protecting trees from storms.

Deer

Emerald Green is one of deer’s favorite winter foods. They’ll strip foliage from ground level to 6 feet, and snow creates a platform that lets them reach even higher.

Options that actually work:

• Burlap screens: Stake burlap around plantings at least 8 feet high
• Deer repellent sprays: Apply before damage begins, reapply monthly through winter and after rain/snow
• Physical fencing: An 8-foot deer fence is the only guaranteed solution

The American Conifer Society covers deer protection strategies in detail. If deer are destroying your landscape, Green Giant Arborvitae is deer resistant. That single difference might be reason enough to switch.

Common problems

Pests

Bagworms build spindle-shaped silk bags from the tree’s own needles. Hard to spot until the bags turn brown. Hand-pick bags before they hatch in late spring. For heavy infestations, Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray works when larvae are young.

Spider mites cause patchy bronzing and premature needle yellowing. Active in spring and fall (cool-season mites). Shake a branch over white paper to check for tiny moving specks. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil handles them.

Fletcher scale appears as waxy brown bumps on needles and produces sticky honeydew that attracts sooty mold. Treat with horticultural oil in late winter when crawlers are active.

The University of Kentucky Entomology department has identification photos for all common arborvitae pests.

Diseases

Leaf blight (Kabatina or Pestalotiopsis) causes branchlet tips to discolor and die. Worse in damp spring weather. Improve air circulation and avoid overhead irrigation.

Root rot (Phytophthora) is caused by waterlogged soil. The tree slowly declines with foliage yellowing from the bottom up. Prevention is the only cure: plant in well-drained soil and don’t overwater. Penn State Extension covers diagnosis and prevention for all common arborvitae diseases.

Emerald Green vs Green Giant vs North Pole

This is the comparison most people need before buying.

Feature	Emerald Green	Green Giant	North Pole
Mature height	12-14 ft	40-60 ft	10-15 ft
Mature width	3-4 ft	12-18 ft	3-5 ft
Growth rate	6-9 in/year	3-5 ft/year	10-12 in/year
Zones	3a-7b	5-8	3-7
Deer resistant	No	Yes	No
Best for	Small-medium yards	Large properties	Narrow spaces, cold climates
Hedge spacing	3-4 ft	5-6 ft	3-4 ft
Typical cost	$25-50	$30-60	$35-65

Pick Emerald Green if you want a tidy, narrow hedge under 15 feet on a smaller lot in zones 3-7 without major deer pressure.

Pick Green Giant if you need a fast, tall privacy wall on a large property and deer are a problem. Just know it gets 60 feet tall and 18 feet wide. For more on columnar and narrow evergreens including both of these, see our guide to columnar evergreen trees.

Pick North Pole if you want similar results to Emerald Green with slightly faster growth and better shade tolerance. Also not deer resistant.

Can you grow Emerald Green in California?

I’ll be honest: Emerald Green is not ideal for Sacramento and inland California. Zone 9a-9b is outside its recommended range of 3a-7b. The Purdue Arboretum Explorer confirms it performs best where summers are cool and winters are cold.

High heat causes slow growth, stress, and increased susceptibility to spider mites and fungal disease. If you insist on trying it, afternoon shade is essential, consistent irrigation is mandatory, and accept slower growth than what the nursery tag promises.

Better NorCal privacy alternatives: Italian Cypress, Podocarpus, Privet, or Photinia. For the full rundown on California-friendly screening trees, see our columnar evergreen trees guide. For how trees affect your property in general, this landscaping investment guide has useful context on choosing the right trees for your region.

Frequently asked questions

How fast do Emerald Green Arborvitae grow? 6-9 inches per year once established. Young trees may grow 1-2 feet per year during initial establishment. It takes 15-20 years to reach full mature height of 12-14 feet.

How far apart should I plant Emerald Green Arborvitae? 3-4 feet apart for a privacy hedge. 2-2.5 feet for a tight formal hedge. 5-6 feet for individual specimen planting.

Do deer eat Emerald Green Arborvitae? Yes. It’s one of deer’s favorite winter foods. Protect with burlap screens, deer repellent sprays applied monthly, or 8-foot fencing. If deer are a major problem, consider Green Giant Arborvitae, which is deer resistant.

Why is my Emerald Green Arborvitae turning brown? The four most common causes: winter burn (desiccation from frozen ground plus wind), drought stress, fungal disease (leaf blight), or spider mite damage. Don’t prune brown branches until late spring. Many recover on their own.

How long do Emerald Green Arborvitae live? About 25 years with proper care. The parent species (Thuja occidentalis) can live hundreds of years in the wild, but the compact cultivar has a shorter productive lifespan.

What’s the difference between Emerald Green and Green Giant? Emerald Green reaches 12-14 feet and grows 6-9 inches per year. Green Giant reaches 40-60 feet and grows 3-5 feet per year. Green Giant is deer resistant. Emerald Green is not. Green Giant needs a much bigger yard.