The Camphor tree: beautiful, useful, and totally invasive

I love Camphor trees. I’ll say that up front so you know where I stand. There are two of them on my block, and they’re some of the most handsome trees in the neighborhood. Big, evergreen, dense canopy on the trimmed one, sprawling and dramatic on the untrimmed one. They smell good when you crush a leaf. They have genuine historical significance. And they are, without question, invasive pests in at least two states.

That’s the Camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora) for you. It’s a tree you can admire and regret planting at the same time.

What is a Camphor tree?

The Camphor tree is an evergreen in the Laurel family (Lauraceae). If that family name sounds familiar, it’s because laurel trees include bay laurel, cinnamon, and avocado. Good company. The tree is native to China, Japan, Korea, and Taiwan, where it grows wild in subtropical forests. It was brought to the United States around 1875 for one specific reason: commercial camphor oil production.

Camphor oil comes from the leaves, bark, and wood. It’s the waxy, crystalline substance you smell in Vicks VapoRub and Tiger Balm. For centuries, it was used across Asia as a mild analgesic, insect repellent, and wood preservative. The Japanese built temples and storage chests from camphor wood because the natural oils kept moths and insects out. You could practically start your own pharmacy with one of these trees growing in your yard.

Here’s the basic profile:

• Mature height: 40 to 60 feet, some specimens reaching 70 feet or more
• Canopy spread: 40 to 60 feet wide at maturity
• Growth rate: 2 to 3 feet per year in good conditions, faster when young
• USDA hardiness zones: 9 to 11
• Lifespan: 150+ years (some specimens in Japan are over 1,000 years old)
• Root system: Aggressive, shallow, and spreading
• Leaf type: Evergreen, glossy, aromatic, 2 to 5 inches long
• Fruit: Small black berries, roughly pea-sized, produced in large quantities
• Water needs: Low once established (WUCOLS rates it “Low” for the Sacramento Valley and all California inland regions)
• Sun: Full sun to partial shade
• Soil: Tolerates a wide range, including clay and sandy soils, but prefers well-drained conditions

For a full rundown on care and maintenance, our detailed camphor care guide covers everything from planting to pruning.

The Hiroshima connection

The Camphor tree is the official city tree of Hiroshima, Japan. After the atomic bomb destroyed the city on August 6, 1945, Camphor trees were among the first to grow back. The root systems survived beneath the devastated surface, and new shoots pushed through the rubble within months. That regrowth ability that makes the tree so frustrating for Florida homeowners is the same trait that made it a symbol of survival in postwar Japan.

Several Camphor trees that lived through the bombing still stand in Hiroshima today. They’re called hibakujumoku (survivor trees), and the city maintains them as living monuments. The largest surviving specimen, near the Sanno Shrine, is estimated to be over 500 years old. Whatever your opinion on the tree’s invasive tendencies, that history commands respect.

How the Camphor tree actually grows

Most homeowners underestimate this tree. When you buy a Camphor tree from the nursery, it’s usually a 5-gallon pot with a thin trunk and a few wispy branches. Give it five years and it’s 20 feet tall. Give it fifteen years and it dominates your yard.

A mature Camphor tree has a trunk 3 to 4 feet in diameter. The bark is rough, deeply furrowed, and gray-brown. The canopy forms a broad, dense dome when properly trimmed, or a wild, irregular shape when left alone. The leaves are glossy green on top, paler underneath, and they stay on the tree year-round. In spring (usually March to April in Northern California), clusters of tiny yellowish-white flowers appear. They’re not showy, but they attract bees. By fall, those flowers become small black berries that birds eat and spread across the neighborhood.

The root system is where this tree earns its reputation. Camphor roots are shallow, aggressive, and extensive. They spread at least as wide as the canopy and often farther. They’ll lift sidewalks, crack driveways, clog sewer lines, and damage foundations if planted too close to structures. I’ve seen a Camphor root buckle a concrete driveway 25 feet from the trunk.

Two trees, two approaches to trimming

There are two Camphor trees on my block, and they tell the story of what trimming does to this species better than any textbook.

The first tree gets regular professional trimming, roughly every 18 months. The arborist thins the canopy, removes crossing branches, and maintains a clean structure. The result is a thick, dense canopy that provides deep shade but still allows some airflow. The branches are well-spaced and the overall shape is round and controlled. It looks like a tree that belongs in someone’s yard. It looks cared for.

The second tree has never been professionally trimmed. Not once in at least 20 years. It has an open canopy and spreads almost across the street. Branches go wherever they want, some drooping to within five feet of the ground. It’s dramatic looking, almost romantic in a wild sort of way, but it also drops branches in every windstorm, blocks the sidewalk, and creates a maintenance headache for the homeowner. When I walk under it after a rain, I’m dodging fallen limbs the size of my arm.

If you’re going to plant a Camphor tree, the trimmed version is the one you want.

When and how to trim a Camphor tree

The best time to trim a Camphor tree is late winter, between mid-January and late February, before the spring growth flush starts. You can do light pruning any time of year (removing dead branches, clearing walkways), but structural work should happen during the dormant period.

Here’s what professional trimming should include:

Crown thinning. Remove 15% to 20% of interior branches to improve airflow and reduce wind resistance. Don’t strip the interior bare. You want a canopy that’s dense enough to shade but open enough that a strong wind passes through it instead of catching it like a sail.

Deadwood removal. Cut out all dead, dying, or diseased branches back to healthy wood. Camphor trees shed deadwood naturally, but letting it accumulate invites branch failure during storms.

Structural pruning. Identify and remove branches that cross, rub against each other, or grow toward the center of the tree. Keep the main scaffold branches well-spaced, ideally 18 to 24 inches apart vertically along the trunk.

Clearance lifting. Raise the canopy to at least 8 feet over walkways and 14 feet over streets. Camphor branches naturally droop as they grow heavier, so you’ll need to address this every couple of years.

Expect to pay $300 to $600 per trim for a mature Camphor tree, depending on size and access. A tree that hasn’t been trimmed in years will cost more for the first session, sometimes $800 to $1,200, because the arborist has to do structural correction work.

Don’t try to do heavy pruning yourself on a Camphor this size. You need a certified arborist with insurance. For details on when to trim your tree by species, that guide covers timing for nearly every common yard tree.

The invasive problem

Here’s where the love affair gets complicated. Both Florida and Texas classify the Camphor tree as a Category I invasive plant. That’s the most serious designation. In Florida, the Florida Exotic Pest Plant Council (FLEPPC) lists it on their Category I list, meaning it’s documented to be disrupting native plant communities. In Texas, it’s on the invasive species list maintained by the Texas Invasive Species Institute.

The problem is simple math. One mature Camphor tree produces thousands of small black berries every year. Birds (especially mockingbirds, starlings, and cedar waxwings) eat the berries and deposit the seeds everywhere they perch. Each seed germinates easily in warm, moist soil. Within two to three years, those seedlings are saplings with root systems strong enough to resist hand-pulling.

The Camphor tree also practices allelopathy. It releases chemical compounds from its roots and decomposing leaves that suppress the growth of nearby plants. Native understory plants, wildflowers, and grasses struggle to compete. In parts of central Florida, Camphor trees have formed dense stands that shade out native vegetation and create monocultures. The ecological damage is real and ongoing. If you’re curious about the broader impact, there’s a useful overview of the environmental effects of planting non-native trees that puts species like this in context.

Cutting a Camphor tree down doesn’t solve the problem. The root system sends up new shoots from the stump and from lateral roots, sometimes 10 to 15 feet from where the trunk used to be. You end up fighting regrowth for years unless you treat the stump with a systemic herbicide (triclopyr or glyphosate) immediately after cutting.

Camphor seedlings: the never-ending battle

In Northern California, the Camphor tree isn’t officially listed as invasive by Cal-IPC (California Invasive Plant Council), but it self-seeds aggressively here too. I pull Camphor seedlings out of my beds every spring. In April and May, after winter rains, they pop up everywhere: in flower beds, along fence lines, in cracks between pavers, and under every tree where birds sit.

When they’re small (under 6 inches), they pull out easily. The root is a single taproot, thin and weak. Wait until summer and that taproot thickens. Wait until fall and you need a hand trowel. Let a seedling grow for two years and you’re dealing with a woody stem and a root system that grips the soil like it’s been there for a decade.

My routine: In April, I walk the entire yard and pull every Camphor seedling I find. I check the flower beds, the base of fences, the strip along the sidewalk, and any mulched areas under existing trees. I do it again in late May. Two passes per spring handles about 95% of them. The ones I miss become obvious by midsummer, and those get dug out with a trowel before they get established.

If you have a Camphor tree and you skip this for even one year, the seedlings become saplings. And saplings become a tree removal project.

The root system: what it will damage

The Camphor tree’s root system is one of the most aggressive of any common landscape tree. The roots are shallow (most concentrated in the top 18 to 24 inches of soil), wide-spreading, and powerful. They grow fast and they grow strong.

Here’s what Camphor roots can damage and the typical repair costs:

• Sidewalks and driveways: Roots lift and crack concrete slabs. Repair runs $5 to $15 per square foot. A 20-foot section of sidewalk replacement costs $1,500 to $3,000.
• Foundations: Roots don’t typically penetrate foundations, but they can push against them and cause cracking in older homes with shallow footings. Foundation crack repair starts at $500 and goes up fast.
• Sewer lines: Older clay or cast-iron sewer laterals are vulnerable. Roots enter through joints and cracks, then expand and clog the pipe. Sewer line repair or replacement runs $2,500 to $6,000.
• Underground irrigation: PVC drip lines and low-pressure irrigation pipes get crushed or displaced by spreading roots.
• Nearby plants: The allelopathic compounds from roots and leaf litter suppress competing plants within the root zone. Flower beds under or near a Camphor tree often struggle.

Root barriers can help if installed at planting time. A linear root barrier (essentially a sheet of thick, rigid plastic or fiberglass buried 24 to 30 inches deep) can redirect roots away from structures. But it only works if you install it before the roots reach the area you’re protecting. Retrofitting a root barrier around a mature tree is expensive ($25 to $50 per linear foot installed) and only partially effective.

For trees near walkways, our guide to sidewalk-friendly species covers options that won’t crack concrete.

Where Camphor trees grow in the US

Camphor trees thrive in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11. That includes:

• California: Coastal and inland valleys from the Bay Area south. Common in Sacramento, the San Joaquin Valley, Los Angeles, and San Diego. The UC Davis Arboretum has grown Camphor trees on campus for decades, and the species thrives in the Sacramento Valley’s hot, dry summers. It handles the valley’s clay soils and alkaline water without complaint.
• Florida: Statewide. This is where the invasive problem is worst, especially in central and north Florida.
• Texas: Gulf Coast region, from Houston to Brownsville. Also naturalized around San Antonio and Austin.
• Louisiana: Southern half of the state. Common in New Orleans and Baton Rouge.
• Georgia and South Carolina: Coastal lowcountry areas.
• Hawaii: Naturalized on multiple islands.

The tree can tolerate brief cold snaps down to about 15 degrees Fahrenheit, but sustained freezes below 20 degrees will kill branches back to the trunk. Young trees are especially cold-sensitive. A hard freeze in their first three winters can kill them outright. In zone 8b (which includes parts of the Sacramento Valley), Camphor trees survive but grow more slowly and may suffer tip dieback in cold winters.

Should you plant a Camphor tree?

If you live in Florida or Texas, don’t plant a Camphor tree. It’s already causing ecological damage in those states and you’d be adding to the problem. Some municipalities in those states have outright banned new plantings. In Florida, several counties (including Hillsborough and Pinellas) discourage or prohibit Camphor trees in new landscaping.

If you live in Northern California or a similar climate (zones 9 to 11), the answer is more nuanced. The tree itself is genuinely beautiful. The evergreen canopy provides year-round shade. The leaves are glossy and aromatic. The growth rate means you’ll have a substantial tree within 10 years. And the Laurel family connection means the wood has a pleasant scent when cut.

But you need to go in with your eyes open. Here’s my advice:

Plant only one. One Camphor tree in the biggest open space in your yard. Not two, not three. One is plenty. A single mature specimen will shade 2,500 square feet of yard.

Give it space. Plant it at least 25 feet from your house, 20 feet from sidewalks and driveways, and 30 feet from sewer lines. I know the common advice says 15 feet from structures. That’s not enough for this tree. I’ve watched Camphor roots cause damage at 20 feet. Give it 25 and install a root barrier on the structure side.

Install a root barrier at planting time. Bury a 30-inch-deep rigid barrier between the tree and any hardscape or structures. Do this when you plant, not after the roots have already spread. A barrier installed at planting costs $300 to $600 for materials and labor. Retrofitting one later costs three times that.

Budget for professional trimming. This is not a tree you set and forget. A professional arborist should inspect and trim it every 18 months to 2 years. Budget $300 to $600 per session for a mature tree. That’s the cost of keeping it looking like the good Camphor tree on my block instead of the wild one.

Monitor for seedlings every spring. Walk your yard in April and May and pull every Camphor seedling you find. Check flower beds, fence lines, mulched areas, and any spot where birds perch. Two passes per spring keeps the volunteer problem manageable.

Water correctly during establishment. Deep water once a week for the first two summers. Camphor trees are drought-tolerant once established, but they need consistent moisture to develop a strong root system in years one through three. After that, they’ll survive on rainfall alone in most of Northern California. The University of California’s WUCOLS guide rates Camphor tree as “Low” water use for inland valleys, meaning a mature tree needs little to no supplemental irrigation beyond normal rainfall in the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys.

Better alternatives to consider

If you want the look of a Camphor tree without the invasive behavior, here are trees worth considering:

Coast Live Oak (Quercus agrifolia). Evergreen, native to California, grows 25 to 70 feet tall with a broad canopy. Slower growing than Camphor but zero invasive concerns. Supports native wildlife. Needs no supplemental water once established.

Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis). Deciduous, not evergreen, but the fall color is electric orange and red. Grows 40 to 50 feet tall, 30 feet wide. Well-behaved roots. Drought tolerant. One of the best trees for fall colors in zones 7 through 9.

Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora). Evergreen with huge white flowers in summer. Grows 40 to 60 feet tall. Dense shade. The leaves are large and leathery, and the tree drops them year-round, but it won’t invade your neighbor’s yard.

Camphor tree alternative for small spaces: If your yard is under 3,000 square feet, skip the Camphor entirely. It’s too big. Look at our guide to best trees for small yards for species that top out at 15 to 25 feet.

What to do if you already have one

If you inherited a Camphor tree when you bought your house, don’t panic. A mature, healthy Camphor tree is a genuine asset. It provides shade that can cut summer cooling costs by 20% to 30%. It’s evergreen, so it looks good in January. And a well-maintained specimen can last for generations.

Here’s how to manage it:

1. Get an arborist assessment. Have a certified arborist (look for ISA certification) inspect the tree’s structure, check for root conflicts, and recommend a trimming schedule. First visit runs $150 to $300 for the consultation.
2. Check for root damage. Walk around the tree’s drip line and look for lifted sidewalks, cracked driveways, or slow drains. If you find damage, address it now before it gets worse.
3. Start the seedling patrol. Every April. No exceptions.
4. Don’t top it. Topping (cutting the main trunk or scaffold branches back to stubs) is the worst thing you can do. It triggers a flush of weak, fast-growing shoots that create a worse canopy structure and more maintenance problems. If the tree is too big, have an arborist reduce it properly through crown reduction cuts.
5. Consider a root barrier retrofit. If roots are approaching your foundation or sewer line, a root barrier installed on the structure side can slow them down. Talk to your arborist about options.

My honest take

I wouldn’t rip out the Camphor trees on my block. They’re mature, they’re healthy, and they give the street character. If one of them died tomorrow, I’d probably replace it with something less aggressive. A Coast Live Oak, maybe, or a Chinese Pistache for fall color.

But if you’re starting with an empty yard and you want a big evergreen shade tree that grows fast, smells good, and has a story behind it, I get the appeal. Just know what you’re signing up for. This tree will give you shade and beauty. It will also give you work, every spring, every couple of years with the arborist, and every time you walk your yard looking for the next generation of seedlings trying to take over.

Plant it if you want. But plant it with your eyes open, your root barrier in the ground, and your arborist’s number in your phone.

Frequently asked questions about Camphor trees

Is a Camphor tree invasive in California? The Camphor tree is not currently on Cal-IPC’s official invasive plant list for California, but it self-seeds aggressively in zones 9 through 11. You’ll need to pull volunteer seedlings every spring in Northern and Southern California.

How fast does a Camphor tree grow? Camphor trees grow 2 to 3 feet per year under good conditions. A nursery tree planted in spring can reach 15 to 20 feet in five to seven years.

How far should a Camphor tree be planted from a house? At least 25 feet from foundations, 20 feet from sidewalks and driveways, and 30 feet from sewer lines. Install a root barrier between the tree and any structures at planting time.

Can you eat anything from a Camphor tree? No. Camphor is toxic if ingested. The leaves, berries, and extracted camphor oil are all toxic to humans and pets if eaten. Keep dogs and small children away from fallen berries.

How long do Camphor trees live? Camphor trees commonly live 150 years or more. Several specimens in Japan are documented at over 1,000 years old. With proper care, a Camphor tree planted today will outlast the house it shades.