Best Time to Plant Trees: A Seasonal Guide by Region and Species

The best time to plant a tree is fall. Not spring, not summer, definitely not winter in cold climates. Fall. Specifically, 6 or more weeks before the ground freezes.

Trees planted in fall have a survival advantage that starts underground. While the air cools and leaves drop, soil temperatures stay warm enough for root growth well into November in most regions. The tree sends out new roots for weeks or months before winter, then resumes root growth in early spring before top growth demands energy. A fall-planted tree enters its first summer with months more root development than a spring-planted tree.

Texas A&M research confirms it: trees planted in November had 92% two-year survival rates compared to 78% for the same species planted in March. That 14-point gap is the difference between a tree that thrives and one that struggles through its first summer.

Why fall planting works

Warm soil, cool air. Soil temperature lags behind air temperature by several weeks. When October air is 55F, soil at 6 inches depth is still 65F. Roots grow whenever soil is above 40F. Cool air means less water loss through leaves. The combination is ideal for root establishment.

Less transplant stress. A tree going dormant redirects energy from shoots and leaves to roots. It’s naturally shifting into establishment mode. A tree planted in spring faces the opposite: warming air triggers leaf growth that demands water from a root system that hasn’t established yet.

Free water from the sky. Fall rainfall in most regions provides natural irrigation exactly when the tree needs it. Spring-planted trees often hit a dry June and July before roots are ready.

More root mass by summer. University of Minnesota Extension notes that fall-planted trees develop root systems through autumn and again in early spring, accumulating 4-6 months of root growth before their first summer drought stress.

When spring planting is better

Fall isn’t always the answer. In these situations, plant in spring instead:

Cold climates (Zones 3-4). Where the ground freezes by late October, fall-planted trees may not get enough root establishment time. The University of Minnesota recommends spring planting for these extreme cold zones. You need the full growing season for roots to anchor before the following winter.

Fleshy-rooted species. Magnolias, tulip trees, dogwoods, and birches have thick, fleshy roots that are prone to rot in cold, wet winter soil. Spring planting lets these roots grow into warm, drying soil. Clemson Extension and Morton Arboretum both recommend spring for magnolias.

Marginally hardy trees. If you’re pushing a tree to the edge of its zone range (planting a zone 7 tree in zone 6), give it spring and a full summer to harden off before its first winter.

Late decision. If it’s November and you just decided to plant, but hard frost is 3 weeks away in your zone, wait for spring. Planting too late is worse than planting in spring.

The worst times to plant

Midsummer (June-August). Maximum heat stress, maximum water demand, minimum root growth. Morton Arboretum calls summer-planted trees the highest mortality group. Even with aggressive watering, survival rates are significantly lower. Don’t do it unless you absolutely must, and commit to daily watering for the first 8 weeks.

Late fall in cold climates. Trees need 4-6 weeks of root-growth-temperature soil (above 40F) after planting. If you miss that window, the tree sits in frozen ground all winter with no new roots. University of Minnesota: “A tree planted in November in Zone 4 is essentially a tree stored outdoors all winter with no root establishment.”

During active bud break. Planting during the energy-intensive window when buds are opening and leaves expanding adds maximum stress. In spring, plant either before bud break or wait until new leaves have fully expanded.

Regional planting calendars

Northeast (Zones 4-7)

• Primary window: September 15 to November 1 (fall)
• Secondary window: April 1 to May 15 (spring)
• Bare root: March 15 to April 30
• Notes: Northern New England (zones 3-4) should favor spring. Southern areas have a wider fall window through mid-November.

Southeast (Zones 7-9)

• Primary window: October 15 to March 1 (fall through winter)
• Bare root: December to February
• Notes: The longest planting window in the country. Florida and Gulf Coast can plant from October through March. Winter planting works because soil rarely freezes.

Midwest (Zones 3-6)

• Primary window (Zones 5-6): September 15 to October 31
• Primary window (Zones 3-4): April 15 to May 31 (spring preferred)
• Bare root: March 15 to April 30
• Notes: Northern Midwest should plant primarily in spring. Central Midwest can do fall or spring, with fall slightly preferred.

Pacific Northwest (Zones 7-9)

• Primary window: October 1 to March 31
• Bare root: November to March (the region’s specialty)
• Notes: Mild, wet winters allow near-continuous planting and root growth. Oregon State Extension strongly recommends fall planting to capitalize on winter rainfall.

California / Southwest (Zones 8-10)

• Primary window: October to February (coinciding with rainy season)
• Bare root: January to March
• Notes: UC Davis recommends planting before winter rains to reduce irrigation needs. Sacramento Tree Foundation’s window is October through March. Desert areas (Phoenix, Las Vegas) have a narrow window from November to January. For California-adapted species, see our California native trees guide.

Bare root vs. container vs. balled-and-burlap

The type of tree stock affects your planting window.

Bare root trees (roots exposed, no soil) must be planted during dormancy. This is a narrow window: late fall after leaf drop through early spring before bud break. Bare root stock dries out rapidly once exposed. Plant within 24-48 hours of receiving, or heel-in temporarily by burying roots in a mound of moist soil. Bare root is the most economical option with excellent success rates IF you plant within the dormant window. For technique, see our bare root planting guide.

Container-grown trees have the most flexible window. The intact root ball allows planting whenever the ground is workable. Fall and spring remain optimal, but container trees tolerate summer planting better than bare root. Check for root-bound circling roots and score the root ball at planting regardless of season.

Balled-and-burlap (B&B) falls between the two. The root ball provides some protection, but severed roots need time to regenerate. Best planted in fall or early spring. Note: a 2-inch caliper B&B tree’s root ball weighs 200-300 pounds. Plan for help or equipment.

Species-specific timing

Evergreens (pines, spruces, arborvitae)

Plant in early fall (September to early October in zones 5-7). Evergreen trees lose moisture through needles all winter. They need established roots before cold weather to replace that moisture. Late fall planting of evergreens in cold climates leads to winter desiccation (brown, dead needles in spring).

Oaks

Fall is preferred. Oaks develop deep taproots and benefit from fall and winter root growth. Purdue Extension recommends fall planting for all oak species. For help with oak selection and common problems, see our oak tree diseases guide.

Maples

Fall or spring both work well for most maple species. Morton Arboretum notes that sugar maples, red maples, and Japanese maples transplant well in either season. For Japanese maples in zones 5-6, spring may be slightly preferred to avoid winter damage to young specimens. See our types of maple trees guide for variety selection.

Fruit trees

Late winter to early spring is traditional and preferred. Most fruit trees are sold bare root and should be planted while dormant (February through April in most regions). UC Davis recommends January through March for California. Stone fruits (peach, cherry, plum) are particularly important to plant in spring in zones 5-6. For details on growing compact fruit trees, see our guides to dwarf apple trees and dwarf peach trees.

Spring-flowering trees (dogwood, redbud, magnolia)

Spring planting is safer for these species, especially at the northern edge of their range. Their fleshy roots and early bloom habit make fall planting riskier in cold zones.

Soil temperature: the hidden variable

Air temperature tells you what season it is. Soil temperature tells you whether roots will grow. The two don’t align perfectly, which is why fall planting works so well (air says “winter is coming,” soil says “keep growing”).

Key thresholds:

• Root growth begins above 40F soil temp
• Optimal root growth: 55-75F
• Root growth slows above 85F and below 40F

How to check: Push a soil thermometer 4-6 inches into the ground near where you plan to plant. When fall soil temp at 6 inches is above 55F, conditions are ideal. Many state extension services publish real-time soil temperature data online.

After planting: the critical first year

Planting at the right time doesn’t guarantee survival. You still need proper care:

Water correctly. The #1 killer of newly planted trees is wrong watering (too much or too little). Our new tree watering guide covers the exact schedule, amounts, and methods for the first three years.

Mulch. A 3-4 inch ring of wood chip mulch reduces water loss by 25-50%, moderates soil temperature, and eliminates mower damage to the trunk. Keep mulch 3-6 inches from the bark. See our landscaping around trees guide for proper technique.

Don’t fertilize the first year. Every major university extension says the same thing. Fertilizer stimulates top growth at the expense of root growth. You want roots first, shoots second. Save the fertilizer for year two.

Protect the trunk. Sunscald, rodent damage, and mower strikes kill more newly planted trees than disease. Trunk wraps, tree guards, and mulch rings all help. See our tree sapling protection guide.

The cost of wrong timing

A properly planted tree costs $150-400 for the tree plus $0-500 for planting (DIY vs. professional). A dead tree costs $150-400 (wasted) plus $1,000-3,000 for removal. Planting at the right time is the single cheapest insurance policy for your investment. For more on protecting your landscaping investment, check mklibrary.com’s guide to landscape maintenance.